Skip to main content

Full text of "California Garden, Vol. 60, No.2, April-May 1969"

See other formats


50 Cents 


Published by the SAN DIEGO FLORAL 

April-May 1969 

lAth Western 



Floral events 

Shows in Conference Building, Balboa Park unless listed otherwise. 

SAN DIEGO ROSE SOCIETY— April 12th, 2-9 p.m.; April 13th, 
10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

Orange Ave. between 6th & 7th. "Coronado Blooms for the 200th 
Anniversary." Dates April 12, 2-7 p.m.; April 13, 10 a.m. to 
4:30 p.m. 

WESTERN ORCHID CONGRESS "Fiesta de Orquideas" 

April 17, Premier Preview — Garden Center Benefit, 7-10 p.m. 
April 18 & 19, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; April 20, 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. 

April 19, 2-9 p.m.; April 20, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

• SPECIAL ATTRACTION! April 19th at 1:15 p.m.— "Tea and 
Flowers" will be a special tea and flower-arranging with use of 
orchids. Demonstration by Tat Shinno of Walteria, California. Star- 
dust Room, Stardust Hotel, Mission Valley in San Diego. Admission 
including tea and goodies, $3.50. For information, call Floral office 
M.W.F. from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. 

tury of Blooms" (Fallbrook's 100th Anniversary.) Open to all ex- 
hibitors in North San Diego County. For information, call Mrs. 
Roman Shore, 728-7044. April 19th and 20th, Veterans of Foreign 
Wars Hall, Fallbrook. 

April 26, 1:30-6 p.m.; April 27, 11 a.m. - 6 p.m. 

and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. — Escondido Village Mall, 1275 E. Valley 
Parkway. Free. 


May 3, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; May 4, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 


May 2, Show will be at the Cabrillo National Monument, Point 
Loma, 1 - 5 p.m. 

San Diego, May 22, 23, and 24. 

SO. CALIF. EXPO Flower Show, jun: 25 -July 6, Del Mar. 

SAN DIEGO DAHLIA SOCIETY— August 1st thru 4th. Nat'l Con- 



454-424 1 




Pool Building & Planting Instructions 
Closed Sundays and Mondays 

2460 North Euclid Avenue 


Third Tuesday, Floral Building, Balboa Park — Chairman, Mrs. Eugene Cooper 

Bus Tours 

BUSCH GARDENS TOUR — Thursday, April 17, $6.50: Luncheon stop 
and time for browsing at the Topanga Canyon Shopping Center. At 
Busch Gardens there is a monorail tour through the brewery, free beer, 
a free bird show. The spring bulbs should be in bloom at this time. Leave 
Balboa Park at 8:30 a.m. and La Jolla Public Library at 9:00 a.m. 

BAKER'S HALF-DOZEN TOUR — Thursday, April 24 and Saturday, May 
17, $6.00 each date: Tour beautiful San Diego County north country. 
Stops at a shell store, a cacti nursery and growing grounds. (The cacti 
and eppies will be at their peak of bloom.) No-host luncheon stop will 
be at the colorful Oceanside Marina. Many restaurants offer a wide food 
selection from fish or chowder to international sandwiches. Afternoon 
stops include Mission San Luis Rey and a visit to a Vista potter's work- 
shop and sales room. A winery and wine tasting room is our last stop. 
We will return to San Diego about 5 p.m. Buses load Balboa Park at 8:30 
a.m., La Jolla Public Library, 9:00 a.m. 

JULIAN WILD FLOWER SHOW — Saturday, May 10, $6.00: Each year 
the Julian Woman's Club puts on a wild flower show the Saturday before 
Mother's Day. They also put on a weed show which we will tour in August. 
This tour will travel east through Alpine and Pine Valley. Stops include 
San Diego's Old Mission in Mission Valley. No-host lunch, hours same as 

Thursday and Saturday, June 5 & 7, $6.50 each date: The present Farm- 
er's Market will be torn down to make way for a freeway. After a no-host 
lunch and time for browsing at Farmer's Market, the tour will continue to 
Los Angeles County Art Museum. If you aren't an art buff . . . Buffums 
and many other interesting stores are across the street from the museum! 
Buses load Balboa Park at 8:30 a.m., La Jolla Public Library, 9 a.m. 

ciation Office hours 10 to 3 Mon.-Wed.-Fri. Telephone 232-5762 
or call residence of Mrs. Donald A. Innis, Telephone 298-1690. 


Vol. 60 


California's Own Garden Magazine 
April -May, 1969 

No. 2 

J he S5an *dJLeqo 
J~loral ^M* 


San Diego's Oldest 
and Largest Garden Club 

Floral Building, 
Balboa Park 


Founded 1907 — Incorporated 1910 



Mr. Virgil H. Schade 


Mrs. Eugene Cooper 

2nd Vice-President 

Mrs. Donald Innis 


Dr. George W. Bremner 

Corresponding Secretary 

Mrs. Eugene Whigham 

Recording Secretary 

Mrs. Walter Bunker, Jr. 


Term 1966-1969 

Mrs. Roland Hoyt 
Mrs. John Marx 

Term 1967-1970 

Captain Charles Spiegel 

Term 1968-1971 

Mrs. A. T. Laughlin 
Mrs. H. Mattenklodt 


Mrs. Eugene Daney 


Mrs. Anne Robinson Tedford 
Mr. Chauncy I. Jerabek 
Mrs. Alice Mary Clark 
Miss Alice Mary Rainford 




SINCE 1909 


A beautiful orchid — Sc. Amber Glow, "Copper Halo" (Sc. Doris Pamela, 
AM/AOS ODC x Lc. Amber Glow, "Olaa", AM/ODC. This unusual, shiny- 
as-a-penny hybrid is the result of a cross between the dwarf -growing scarlet 
red — Sc. Doris Pamela and the classically-formed butter yellow Lc. Amber 
Glow. The cross gave but a scant 25 seedlings with two having bloomed to 
date. The one pictured on our cover has never been shown. We thank Frank 
Fordyce for the photograph of this lovely orchid and for making the color 
cover of this issue available to us. 
LAST ISSUE: February-March cover photo was taken by Mr. Eugene Cooper. 


Have a Waterfall in Your Garden 6 

A Tribute to a Friend by Barbara Serdynski 7 

Chocolate Bells by Helen Witham 8 

Gardening a la Salad Bowl by Rosalie F. Garcia 9 


Orchid Leaf Fall by Frank Fordyce 14 

Orchid Species by Florence Escobedo 15 

Orchids — A Growing Hobby by John Walters ....18 

Cypripediums Simplified by Daniel L. Collin ....19 

Orchids as House Plants by John Walters - -.22 

Phalaenopsis Culture by Elwood J. Carlson 23 

Cymbidiums by E. Hetherington 28 

Leaves from a California Florist's Notebook by Alice M. Rainford 29 

Check Soil Before Your Next Planting by Ed Bechowsky 30 

Observations on the Turk's Cap Melocactus by Gilbert Voss 31 

Calendar of Care 

Meet our new GARDEN CARE Feature Writer, Mr. George James 32 

Dahlias by Larry Sisk 33 

Fuchsias by Morrison W. Doty 34 

Irises by Frank Hutchinson 35 

Orchids by Frank Fordyce 36 

Roses by J. Wells Hershey and Mary Jane Hershey 37 


Published Bi-Monthly by the SAN DIEGO FLORAL ASSOCIATION 
Floral Association Building, Balboa Park, San Diego, California 92101 


Publication Board 

Virgil Schade, President; Mrs. W. E. Betts, Jr.; Mrs. Eugene Cooper; Mrs. Donald A. Innis; 

Mrs. William Mackintosh; Mrs. John Marx; and Mrs. Paul Witham 

Editor: Virginia Casty Norell 

Editorial Office: 9173 Overton Avenue 

San Diego, California 92123 

Phone: 277-8893 


Contact Mrs. Virginia Norell, 277-8893 
9173 Overton Avenue, San Diego, 
California 92123 
Advertising rates on reguest. Copy deadline, 1st day of the month preceding date of issue. 

California Garden is on the list of publications authorized by the San Diego Retail Merchants Associa- 
tion. Entered as second-class matter, Dec. 8, 1910 at the Post Office at San Diego, California under the 
Act of March 3. 1879. 

© April 1969, San Diego Floral Association. Printed in U.S.A. "We reserve the right to grant per- 
mission for quotation." Write to Editor at address shown above. 

Staff Photographer: 

Betty Mackintosh 




APRIL -MAY, 1969 

You are invited to 
become a member of 

^Jhe S^avi <JJieao 
^jriorai ^Ar55ocLation, 

Membership includes: 

• Monthly meetings featuring 
outstanding speakers 

• A monthly Sunday afternoon 
garden tour 

• Subscription to CALIFORNIA 
GARDEN bi-monthly 

• Use of a large horticultural 

Fill in box with membership desired and 

mail with check to 

San Diego Floral Association 
Balboa Park, San Diego, Calif. 92101 

Classification of Memberships: 

Individual - $ 5.00 □ 

Family __ $ 5.50 □ 

Sustaining $10.00 □ 

Contributing $25.00 □ 


Ad d re s s 

Zip . _ 


Send new and old address 

plus zip code to 

Balboa Park, San Diego, Calif. 92101 





Revised Edition, 1967, with Official 
Plant-Flower-Tree Guide for 200th 
Anniversary Floral Comm. 1969 Cele- 

For Your Gardening Pleasure and 
Gifts for Friends, 
Mail $1.10 Each 




P. O. Box 3175, S. D. 92103 

All Proceeds Benefit 
Childrens & Youth Concerts 



Since 1924 We Give S&H Green Stamps 

1525 Fort Stockton Drive 

Phone 295-2808 
San Diego 92103 


SINCE 1913 


Suite 2100, United States National Bank Bldg. 
Centre City, San Diego 1, Calif. 233-6557 



by reading the California experts who share their ex- 
perience and know-how with you, through the pages of 


written by and for Californians and published since 
1909 by the San Diego Floral Association. 


1 Year, $2.50 

Use this handy form to mail your subscription now! Send it to: Floral 
Building, Balboa Park, San Diego, California 92101. 

A Subscription to California Garden Makes a Wonderful Gift. 




City State 

Please find enclosed payment for 1 year, $2.50 

Zip Code 

I understand that if I enclose $5.00 for a membership in 
The San Diego Floral Association, it carries with it a one-year 
subscription to California Garden Magazine. 

(Check here if you wish a membership: [ ]) 


The West's Largest 

Outdoor Flower 
and Garden Show 

Beneath several acres of green shade cloth in 

an atmosphere of serene harmony, one can 

see the largest selection of specimen plants, 

blooms, arrangements, hanging baskets and 

individual landscape design exhibits ever 

assembled at the same time in such a 

natural setting of beauty and pageantry 

of color. There is approximately 

$30,000 awarded in cash premiums 

to Junior and Senior Competitors. 

For Premium List, write: 

Entry Supervisor, Fairgrounds 

Del Mar, California 92014 




June 25 - July 6 

Commercial and Artistic 







Overlooking La Jolla Shores, just 
up the hill from Torrey Pines Road, or 
down the hill from Mt. Soledad, is 
HILLSIDE NURSERY. Whichever ap- 
proach you take, you'll find a WON- 
gonias, Philodendrons, Tropicals, fine 
House Plants — a wide variety of well 
grown nursery stock. 

Corey Hogewoning, Prop. 


Tuberous Begonias 


Howard Voss • 753-5415 

Antomelli Brothers 


2545 Capitola Road 
Santa Cruz, California 95062 

36-page cofor cafafog 25 cents 

Alice and Allan Zukor 

Validated Customer Parking at Rear of Store 

733 Broadway 239-1228 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 

Well-planned landscaping adds to the beauty of this 
waterfall setting executed by the Frederick R. Stubbins 
in the garden of their La folia home. Materials ivere 
provided by Hazard Products, Inc. of Mission Valley. 






he sound of the surf crashing 
on the rocks below their home in the 
Diamond Head section of Honolulu was 
one of the things Mr. and Mrs. Frederick 
R. Stubbins missed most when they 
moved to La Jolla from Hawaii. 

Since they both had long enjoyed the 
restful cadence of the sea, the couple 
agreed that the sound of the surf could 
probably best be replaced by the sound 
of a tumbling waterfall. 

In choosing their new mainland home 
on La Jolla's Beaumont Street, the Stub- 
bins selected a residence that promised 
ample space for an area that would ac- 
commodate their desired waterfall as well 
as provide natural beauty in a landscaped 

The choice of a site for the waterfall 
also was carefully considered to permit 
ample sunlight for the growing things 
the Stubbins had planned for their back- 
yard retreat. 

After consulting with specialists at the 

Mission Valley store of Hazard Products, 
Inc., Mr. Stubbins selected his basic ma- 
terials, which included Arizona sand- 
stone, feather rock boulders and Hazard 
cement blocs. 

He also took advantage of Hazard's 
garden center, where he acquired a num- 
ber of fern varieties as well as azaleas, 
camellias, philodendron, bird of paradise, 
ginger and strawberry plants. 

With his supplies at hand, Mr. Stub- 
bins first constructed a three-foot retain- 
ing wall of Hazard bloc, behind which 
he placed top soil fill, adding the Arizona 
sandstone and feather rock boulders for 
artistic cover. 

He then installed a pump which cir- 
culates 500 gallons of water per hour to 
the fall, which rises a distance of seven 
feet above the ground. Three collecting 
basins were placed at intervals to heighten 
the waterfall sound effect. 

Now, Mr. and Mrs. Stubbins say, the 
only thing missing in their garden is a 
view of Diamond Head. ■ 


Tom Craig, iris hybridizer, passed 
away recently, leaving a multitude 
of iris friends mourning his loss 

Mr. Craig relaxing 
during a visit in the 
Eugene Cooper home. 

A Tribute to a Friend 

by Barbara Serdinsky 


ow does one write about a man 
who himself excelled in writing ability, 
was an outstanding hybridizer as well as 
an accomplished artist? Remarkable, dy- 
namic, devoted and amazing are words 
that come to mind in an effort to do 
justice to Tom Craig. 

Perhaps it would be easier to appreci- 
ate his many talents if we looked back 
through the years and started with Tom 
the boy and young man. 

He was born June 16th, 1908 in Up- 
land, California, the son of the late Dr. 
and Mrs. Wm. T. Craig. As a youngster, 
his interest in collecting items for the 
biological sciences dominated his activities 
and his collections were so advanced that 
by the time he was ten years old he was 
listed in the Naturalist Directory (a ref- 
erence book where scientists who do not 
have time to collect specimens can have it 
done professionally). By the time he 
entered high school he was already an ad- 
vanced student of biology and was soon 
placed in Junior college biology classes. 

He entered Pomona College majoring 
in science but became interested in Art, 
due to the close association of one of his 
professors and well known Art Historian, 
Jose Pejoan. In his junior year he trans- 
ferred to the University of California and, 
following his scientific drive, served as 
research assistant in zoology. He later re- 
turned to Pomona College and graduated 
in 1932 with a BA degree and Phi Beta 

Kappa. During this time he continued 
to study art. 

Through Jose Pejoan, Tom had the op- 
portunity to meet Dr. Stillman Berry 
(Ph.D. Biology) of Redlands, California, 
who was most interested in iris. He col- 
lected mollusks for Dr. Berry's research 
and later illustrated Dr. Berry's articles 
but took his pay in iris. Thus, his first 
real contact with the iris world was made. 

His First Hybridizing Program 

Not a man to take the easiest way of 
doing things, his thoughts now turned 
toward the Van Tubergen's Regelio-cyclus 
iris crosses; knowing they were near per- 
fect in beauty but were rather difficult to 
grow and required special care and at- 
tention. He accepted this challenge and 
his first hybridizing program started. His 
idea was to promote better growing habits 
incorporating greater vigor so every one 
would be able to grow them. Branching 
out with this program he then decided to 
use tall bearded iris as pod parents; get- 
ting the onco flower onto the plants by 
in-breeding strong onco-breds and by us- 
ing onco pollen on the seedlings. 

By now the garden, and home, atop 
Mt. Washington was fully planted to 
onco seedlings (as he once told me — "My 
beloved children"). Here, Tom's lovely 
wife and inspiration, shared the joy as 
well as the responsibilities of maintaining 
this vast hybridizing program now under 

way. Tom was now the father of one 
son, Ivan. 

Here we briefly interrupt and digress 
from the world of iris into an entirely 
different environment . . . now, the roar 
and thunder of World War II echoed 
across the nation. Tom dutifully heeded 
the call to arms and left for overseas. 
During the grim battles and hardships of 
war his superior skills and talents were 
not to be wasted. He was employed as 
an artist correspondent and staff photog- 
rapher for Life magazine and also served 
in the Italian theater as an artist in the 
front lines. He was one of the first 
Americans to enter Florence, Italy at the 
time of the Partisan Liberation. Even so, 
frequent letters were sent home with in- 
structions about various crosses he wanted 
made . . . and Frances, his wife, followed 
every written order. 

Association with C.G. White 

He returned from the war to find his 
garden full of flowering hybrids and the 
urge to go forward was stronger than 
ever. He visited the garden of the late 
C. G. White (an Aril hybridizer and the 
originator of the now famous C. G. 
White hybrids). Both men were fasci- 
nated to even dare think such flowers 
could exist and decided then to share 
their views and accomplishments. Tom 
made special use of CAPITOLA, IB- 
MAC and JOPPA PARROT and was one 
of the first to gain success in obtaining 
seed from the difficult Mohrs by inter- 
crossing some of the C. G. White onco- 
breds. The seedlings now showed such 
growth and improvement the hardest job 
was making the correct selections to keep 
and to use for breeding. Iris were grow- 
ing in every inch of available space. 

The Move to Escondido 

Room to stretch out; room to grow 
more iris was badly needed if this pro- 
gram was to flourish so the family, now 
three boys and twin girls, moved to the 
250-acre ranch north of Escondido and 
was rightfully named: "Rancho de Las 
Flores." It wasn't easy as many troubles 
prevailed, along with illness in the fam- 
ily, but determination and the will to 
conquer prevailed at all times. 

About this time Tom's progressive and 
diligent ideas produced a beautiful Mohr 
Continued page 24 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 


by Helen V. Witham 



erhaps it is the very unexpectedness 
of it: a flower with exactly the color and 
sheen of the sauce on a hot fudge sun- 
dae? Oh, come on now! 

I bring this plant to your attention for 
three reasons: First, because of its unique 
blossoms; second, because this is "history 
year" in California; third, to point up 
one of the small ways in which man is 
altering his environment. 

Its three folknames, "Chocolate Lily," 
"Chocolate Bell," and "Mission Bell" 
seem unavoidable when you consider the 
shape and color of its flowers. This 
charming small member of the lily family 
is Fritillaria bi flora in the books. Here in 
the San Diego area it usually stands six 
to twelve inches high, with one or two 
bells. Its specific name means "with two 
bells" and this is the usual case in years 
of average rainfall, provided the previous 
March and April were rainy. (As in 
other bulbs, this year's flowers were made 
last spring.) Occasionally a plant has 
three or four bells and I have seen a 
cultivated one with twelve, but it didn't 
look six times as pretty as the plant with 
two; it didn't look right, somehow, — only 

The bells are three-fourths to one inch 
long, with the six-parted perianth com- 
mon to liliaceous plants, six golden anth- 
ers symmetrically arranged, and three- 
parted pistil of yellow-green. Color varies 
from shining chocolate-brown to green- 
ish-brown or almost purple. Leaves have 
much the smooth texture and shining 
green color of our familiar Easter lilies. 
The two-inch medallion in the picture 
will give you an idea of scale. 

Now the bit of history: the medallion 
was a Flower Show award, "Zinnia 
Sweepstakes," won by Mr. Emerson 
Cooper (Father of Eugene Cooper) in 
the early 1940's. Note how well the leaf 
and flower lend themselves to the cir- 
cular design without losing their identity 
as Chocolate Lilies. We have been un- 
able to find out who designed it, or for 
which years it was used. If any of our 
readers can shed any light on this, please 
write "Chocolate Lily" in care of this 
magazine, and we will be delighted to 
publish your recollections in a later issue. 

Now the conservation note: a sad fact 
is that this charming small lily is being 
civilized out of existence; it is losing its 
home to houses and highways. Never 

very common in the sense that it covered 
whole hillsides, it appears in small col- 
onies on north slopes of adobe hills, us- 
ually near the top, and on very few 
adobe hills. It occurs in areas of short 
grass and small herbaceous plants among 
scattered bushes of Sagebrush or Wild 
Buckwheat, or just below the brush on the 
slope. Its associates are Shooting-Stars, 
Wild Onions, Brodiaeas, Sanicles, and 
Star Lilies. 

We have here in California an organi- 
zation of persons interested in our native 
flora (California Native Plant Society), 
one of whose aims is to save and relocate, 
if possible, such uncommon native plants 
as this when destruction seems imminent 
as a result of highway or housing devel- 
opment. If any of you know of such a 
case, please write us. Mr. Frank Gander 
is trying to get these Chocolate Bells es- 
tablished at Silverwood, where they 
would have sanctuary forever and would 
surprise and delight many people in years 
to come. Or even if you can tell us where 
they are growing, we could then keep 
track of them and rush to the rescue when 
bulldozers appear on the horizon! ■ 





A La 

Salad Bowl 

by Rosalie F. Garcia 


Our gardening friend 
and author, Rosalie Garcia 


V^/alifornians, especially, are ad- 
dicted to the tossed salad, which is usually 
limited to one kind of lettuce with a 
choice of salad dressings: cheese, French, 
or mayonnaise, or mixtures of these; or 
lettuce with a few sliced tomatoes, rad- 
ishes, green onions or cucumbers. For one 
with a roving eye, a spirit of adventure 
and a garden there are combinations of 
taste experiences that can last a lifetime. 

Nearly any young vegetable or the 
center of it will yield crisp morsels to be 
sliced thinly — not too many — and tossed 
with the lettuce: small green peas, tips of 
young asparagus, young turnip hearts, the 
center buds of cauliflower and Brussel's 
sprouts, tender stems of broccoli, skinned 
and sliced. Bean sprouts, marinated in oil 
and vinegar, celery and green peppers 
sliced in julienne strips, shreds of all the 
cabbages give texture and variety. None 
of these should be smothered in mayon- 
naise and cheese dressings, but the classic 
oil and vinegar or lemon juice in a three 
of oil to one of vinegar poured in the 
bottom of the salad bowl. Then the 
vegetables and greens are put in, tossed 
gently and served immediately to make 
the appetizer that is so refreshing and 

All of the above mentioned vegetables 
are in the produce racks, along with a 
variety of lettuces which come to us crisp 
and fresh, even though the garden grown 
are superior. There are the Bibb, the ice- 
berg, romaine, buttercrunch, fordhook 
and Boston. Since the iceberg has the least 
taste but best texture, and the romaine 
keeps the best, one should grow one or 

two of the others for variety, for one can- 
not use all of the heads before they lose 
their freshness and flavor. The butter- 
crunch and Bibb make small loose heads 
of smooth velvety texture, and the oak 
leaf and ruby, fordhook and Boston are 
non-heading, colorful and smooth. A row 
of any of them is decorative and can be 
wedged in the flower beds. They are 
productive in a week or two for there are 
tiny-leaved plants to thin out for eating. 

Other greens planted for cooking pre- 
sent tiny succulent leaves: spinach, mus- 
tard, chard and kale that liven the salad 

All of the endives are as easy to grow 
as lettuces and can be used with or in- 
stead of lettuce. The common curly kind 
that is used as garnish is delicious when 
tender and young. There is a pleasant 
bitterness that is enticing which becomes 
too pronounced in the mature plant. 
Seeds should be planted early, for they 
are cool weather vegetables. More rare 
is the French or Belgian endive which 
looks like romaine, but not so tall. The 
rosettes should be tied together so the 
hearts will whiten and grow tighter, for 
it is the blanched hearts that are eaten. 

Similar and often called endive is es- 
carole. Rodan, a hybrid lettuce, a combin- 
ation of buttercrunch lettuce and romaine 
produces crisp, buttery heads in much less 
time, is easier to grow and is sweeter than 
any of the endives. Getting seeds for any 
of these is a problem, but Burpee has had 
all of them, and if they are not in the 
seed racks, nurserymen can usually get 
them. All of these can be started in a 

coldframe and transplanted. 

Plants cultivated for their distinctive 
flavors and aromas and classified as herbs 
have long been used in salads, which have 
come to us from the Orient via the Medi- 
terranean peoples. It is understandable 
that Northern peoples have come late to 
the green salad, although they had pickles 
which they combined with meat, fish and 
starchy vegetables and foods. Even now 
and in California, many of our migrants 
from the Middlewest and Northwest have 
no fondness for and do not adopt the 
green salad. 

Edible Herbs 

There are so many edible herbs that 
one must experiment and grow only fa- 
vorites. All grow from seeds, but nurser- 
ies carry the most common ones in little 
pots on a special herb counter. Some are 
annuals, but most are perennials. All have 
attractive foliage and small blossoms and 
can be counted as ornamentals, which 
accounts for the classic herb gardens down 
through the ages. Some like shade and 
continuous dampness, others full sun and 
not too much water. The perennials like 
the mints, sages, chives should be planted 
where they will not be uprooted every 

The parsleys which are usually classed 
as herbs add zip to the salad bowl. The 
curly kind that comes in meat packages 
and in bunches in the produce racks is 
the least palatable for it is usually tough 
and strong. A few hills of it planted 
around among the flowers (for it is 
pretty) will allow one to appreciate it. 

The best parsley is the plain, Italian 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 

or Chinese, for it is called all of them, 
and has the freshest clean taste and is the 
most hardy. Once planted and a few al- 
lowed to go to seed, it becomes perpetual. 
Married to oil and vinegar it can be eaten 
alone as a complete salad. Chervil or 
French parsley has a most piquant and 
delicate flavor. It is harder to grow, but 
is worth the effort. The Mexican parsley, 
"cilantro" as they call it, and coriander 
to us, is the strongest in flavor and most 
distinctive of all. Transplanting of parsley 
is tricky business, for all have tap roots. It 
is best to plant where they are expected to 
grow, but if the scoop is sliced down four 
or five inches and as much soil as possible 
can be brought with it, and planted in a 
deep hole, the trick can be accomplished. 

Onions — et cetera 

The chives, onion and garlic, are tangy 
tidbits to add to salads, chopped blades 
which are evergreen and always available. 
They come from seeds or divisions. They 
take little space, can be adapted to pots, 
and be stuck in almost any place in the 
garden, for aphids hate them and avoid 
wherever they grow. They make attractive 
stems of clusters of lavender flowers. 
Those who do not care for the over- 
powering onion or garlic like the delicate 
flavors of these slim green blades to 
anoint the salad bowl. 

Another group of herbs that are all 
perennial and grow like ground covers, 
creeping over large spaces are oregano, 
marjoram, thyme, tarragon, winter and 
summer savories. All are pungent and 
should be used sparingly. Some are better 
when their leaves are dried. Tarragon and 
the thymes flavor vinegars very well and 
are better used that way in salads. 

The mints have the same growing 
habits but do better in damp shade. 
Planted near a water faucet they can 
catch the drips. They go into a dormant 
stage in winter, but can be transplanted 
to a box and set in a warm sunny place 
and some leaves will be there all the 
time. The old common wild mint, deep 
green with a purplish tinge, is the strong- 
est and will take the place with its fast 
expanding roots if not contained. The 
hardy peppermint, pale green and strong 
in flavor is next. The mild and delicate 
fruit mints, such as the pineapple and 
apple are all pleasant additions. They 
go well in fruit salads as well as the 
tossed green ones. 


The cresses are herbs ana are mostly 
annuals which add a spiciness and even 
bite to the salad. The old wild pepper 
cress is now the curly kind that we culti- 
vate. A few sprigs tossed in give a sur- 
prise. The beautiful, fern-like clusters 
of the upland cress is milder but has an 
inviting nip. 

Watercress, the most delicate and best 
known, can be grown in the home garden 
even though its natural habitat is a shady 
running stream. I have an old granite pan 
with holes in the bottom, half-filled with 
rocks and topped with compost, under a 
water faucet in semi-shade. In the hot 
dry season I let the faucet drip gently all 
the time, and the rest of the time see that 
it is good and moist. I have all I need all 
the year. 

The bitter, the sweet, the peppery and 
the aromatic needs of the salad have been 
suggested. We can have sour also in the 
sorrels, of which there are several. They 
come from seeds and are perennials which 
produce pale green leaves all the year. 
They can be divided and need to be, for 
they multiply rapidly and profusely. The 
tender inner leaves add just that sour 
taste that is augmented so nicely with oil 
and vinegar. 

Annuals With Exotic Flavors 

Three more of the annuals will add 
the exotic to the list of flavors. Sweet 
basil, both green and purple, are famous 
and common. It combines texture, spici- 
ness and aroma and makes of sliced 
tomatoes a dish unto itself, as well as 
enlivening the green salad. Lesser known 
is Florence fennel whose thickened stems 
and ferny leaves have an anise flavor that 
licorice lovers enjoy. Dill comes in this 
classification as a tall ferny plant, topped 
with clusters of white blossoms and myr- 
iads of seeds that will scatter all through 
the garden and send up tender plants all 
the year. The seeds sprinkled sparingly 
will add flavor and distinction. 

Try Flowers for Salads 

These are by no means all the possi- 
bilities that one may consciously grow for 
the salad. A trip around the flower gar- 
den has many tidbits in blossoms and 
leaves. The tender and colorful nastur- 
tium offers its entire plant: chopped stems 
are juicy and spicy, the young leaves are 
velvety sweet, the blossoms are sweet and 

A few violet blossoms and tender leaves 

add a dimension that is arresting. Very 
young chrysanthemum leaves and the 
florets, especially of the spider varieties 
give a pungent lift. A few marigold 
petals are like a different pepper and 
have long been used by the Orientals who 
pioneered the use of blossoms in cookery. 
The Mexicans use many blossoms to make 
drinks or add them as flavors to citrus 
drinks. Some of the rose petals may be 
sacrificed, but use only the crisp and frag- 
rant ones, such as the old-fashioned ones. 
The scented geraniums, rose, lemon and 
apple leaves rubbed on the sides of the 
bowl add a haunting fragrance and an 
elusive gustatory response. 

Set out on a quest and make the tossed 
salad the most exciting part of the meal. 
Good eating! 

// anyone knows of or grows an Italian 
salad vegetable called rucola, I should like 
to hear about it. It is sold in Eastern 
markets and often featured in Italian res- 
taurants, but I do not find it here. RFG ■ 


grown for San Diego 
County's climate 


drive up 395 past 

Escondido 5 miles 

Turn West I mile on 

Deer Springs Rd. 

Closed Sunday Mornings 



Roadmap Guide Available 

A completely up-to-date roadmap guide 
for San Diego county is available to resi- 
dents and visitors for the San Diego 
200th Anniversary, it has been announced. 

The map, which represents more than 
four months of work by a team of car- 
tographers, draftsmen, and writers, was 
formally presented to the 200th Anni- 
versary, Inc., by the Automobile Club of 
Southern California during a dinner meet- 
ing of the Transportation Club of San 
Diego Thursday, January 19, 1969, at the 
Hilton Inn. 

Joseph E. Havenner, executive vice- 
president of the Automobile Club of 
Southern California, presented special 
copies of the map to Charles E. Cordell, 
president, and Hugh A. Hall, celebration 
director of the 200th. 

Field work on the San Diego 200th 
Anniversary map began last summer fol- 
lowing a series of meetings between Auto 
Club and 200th officials. 

"We checked many maps and found 
that important county locations were not 
indicated," Hall said, "and because of the 
variety and county-wide stage for the 
200th, we wanted to be sure people could 
find their way." 

Work on the map included special 
field research by cartographers to insure 
map accuracy, preparation of new map 
work by draftsmen, illustrations by an 
artist, and the writing of special 200th 
Anniversary material. 

One highlight of the map shows the 
location of all 60 registered state his- 
torical landmarks in San Diego county 
including the designated site number and 
a description. 

Included in the guide is an illustrated 
map of San Diego county, street maps 
of San Diego, Oceanside, Escondido, and 
Tijuana, and special detailed drawings 
of both the Old Town and Balboa Park 


Special travel and tourist information 
has been prepared on all areas of the 
county to help visitors locate key recre- 
ational areas. 

200th Anniversary maps are available 
at the downtown headquarters, the 200th 
office in Oceanside, and various informa- 
tion centers throughout the county. 



Coordinated by the MEN'S GARDEN CLUB 
of San Diego County 

Thurs., Fri., Sat., May 22, 23, & 24 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 






Or quideas" 

The next 
several articles 
were written by 
orchid specialists 
expressly for 
this issue 
California Garden 


Theme: "Fiesta de Orquideas" 






APRIL 17, 7:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. (OPEN TO PUBLIC) 

FRIDAY, APRIL 18 & SATURDAY, APRIL 19, 1969, 10:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. 

SUNDAY, APRIL 20, 1969 10:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. 








Right: Joyce Harrington 
XC New Albion 

Beloiv: SLC Jewel Box 
"Scheherazade" HCC 

Below: "Green Pastures" 

Be, Deesse, "Lecoujle" (with small 
model) to show the immense bloom size 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 





—what does it mean ? 

by Frank Fordyce 


ellowing and falling of leaves 
is often thought to be a sign of unhealth- 
iness in a plant. This is possible, but it 
may be due to natural leaf fall. To illus- 
trate: Natural ripening and shedding of 
foliage is a slow process, taking place at 
any time of the year, but it is more pro- 
nounced during spring and especially fall. 
Leaves are usually shed from bulbs that 
are 3 to 4 years old, depending upon the 
type. Rarely are leaves shed from more 
than one back-bulb at a time, or more 
than one bulb per year. This is normal 
for most cattleyas and cymbidiums. 

Leaves may also yellow and drop be- 
cause of poor care or culture, primarily 
over-watering or under-watering. The 
symptoms are similar. Falling leaves 
along with shriveled bulbs and small 
stunted growths would indicate these con- 
ditions. How does one check to see if 
he has been over-watering or under-water- 
ing? Take the plants out of their pots 
and look at the roots. In cases of over- 
watering, the roots will be soft, brown, 
soggy, and decayed. The outer layer of 
the root will strip easily from the center 
core. Dryness, or under-watering is far 
less serious than over-watering. When 
dry plants are taken from their pots, their 
roots are alive, white and firm. These 
plants may have lost some foliage, but 
by carefully watering a little more, they 
will soon be "back on their feet." 

If the plants have lost their roots due 
to soggy conditions, it may be some time 
before they are thriving again. They 
must be completely repotted, into smaller 
pots, with new potting media, making 
sure that all old dead roots have been 
cut away. With newly potted plants, try 
to increase humidity to prevent any more 
leaf loss. 

If bulbs shrivel and several leaves yel- 
low and fall on the same plant — watch 
out! Unpot and treat accordingly. 

From Frank Fordyce: Lillian Stewart "Rose" 
Below: Fordyce Orchids — Santa Barbara Exhibit, 1967 



Orchid Species 

by Florence Escobedo 
Rancho Flormando Orchids 


he word species is an ordinary 
sounding word to most people, but to the 
Orchidist, it immediately brings to mind 
the unusual, the unique, and the "some- 
thing different" wanted in every collec- 
tion. Every orchid grower, whether ama- 
teur, advanced hobbyist, or commercial 
grower, tends to have at least a few plants 
of the endless variety of species available. 
Please remember that the word species 
is used either singular or plural, and to 
use specie, referring to one plant is in- 

Many new orchidists are unaware of 
the tremendous variety of plants to be 
found in the species category. Many are 
of the opinion that they produce only 
small insignificant flowers which cannot 
compare with the "queenly" Cattleya. 
There are so many flower sizes, types, 
and colors, so many growth habits large 
and small, dwarf and miniature, such an 
endless selection from which to choose, 
that one can be quite selective in adding 
to his collection. 

Anticipation of Discovery 

We have imported Species and Botan- 
icals for many years from countries all 
over the world, and each shipment has 
never failed to bring excitement and hope 
that among the plants is that illusive 
varietal form, or possibly a natural hy- 
brid, or a mutation, or even a plant long 
lost and now rediscovered. Historically 
they are found in the writings of Con- 
fucius, and are described in passages of 
history dating 300 to 400 years before 
Christ. Since man-made hybrids did not 
occur until the 19th century, any refer- 
ence to orchids had to apply to the bo- 
tanicals or species. 

Species are so rewarding to both the 
novice and the advanced grower, as they 
are easily grown and easy to bloom. 
However, as with all rules of the thumb, 
there are a few exceptions that present 

a challenge and fall in the "difficult" 
category. We agree with the quote we 
have heard for a number of years, author 
unknown, that "it takes a special kind of 
genius to kill an orchid." 

Planting Medium 

We have used many growing mediums, 
some seemed a little more successful than 
others, but our species have never been 
fussy and seem to adapt quickly to our 
culture. Our theory has been to experi- 
ment in a small way as to what medium 
seemed easiest and available, and if suc- 
cessful, use this for all plantings. 

While in Los Angeles County, we 
finally decided on redwood bark chips, 
which must be water soaked prior to 
using, and not allowed to really dry out. 
We used this for two years and found it 
very successful. For the novice, this is an 
excellent medium as it does not tend to 
break down as do some of the other 
products just when your plant is well es- 
tablished, and it does not get water- 
logged. It is relatively free from fungus 
growths, insects, and worms. 

The Water Factor 

In Los Angeles County, we had 
Owens Valley water. When we moved 
to the present location in San Diego 
County, we found we had Colorado River 
water which is high in a salt content. 
Our Pescatora and Huntleya species did 
not take to the water change and prompt- 
ly quit! We again experimented with 
our growing medium in search for some- 
thing not needing as much water, and 
decided to try redwood bark chips, sphag- 
num moss and decomposed granite, in 
about equal portions. This has proved 
excellent, as in unpotting to see what is 
going on in the root system, we have 
found good healthy growth. We pack 
our medium thumb tight, and as in every 
case with any growing medium, please 
remember to have good drainage. 

Slab Planting 

We put some plants on slabs of hapu 
or Mexican tree fern. We prefer the 
black (Mexican) tree fern slabs to the 
brown (Hawaiian) as the breakdown 
is very slow and it lasts for years, and 
does not get as water logged. It is easy 
to use slabs. Lay your plant on the slab 
with a little sphagnum moss over the 
roots, anchor tightly with small wires so 
that the plant does not move or come 
loose. However, do not get "carried 
away" with the moss, as if it is too thick, 
the side to the roots does not get wet. 
Then you have defeated your purpose of 
providing the roots with sufficient mois- 
ture for good growth. We then submerge 
our plants in water, so that the slab and 
moss get thoroughly soaked, and there- 
after spray the slabs each time we water 
the potted plants. Slabbed plants do 
beautifully on patios, as added moisture 
is given them each time you wash down 
the patio. 

Plants on Trees 

Plants can be put in evergreen trees 
with filtered sunlight, by anchoring them 
at the fork or where large limbs join 
the trunk, with the aid of sphagnum moss 
and plant ties or strips of material. We 
put both Cattleyas and Species in Brazil- 
ian Pepper trees, and they survived dry 
spells, near freezing, and extreme Santa 
Ana winds. Live Oak trees are wonder- 
ful for a series of plants on the large 
lower limbs. 

For Apartment Divellers 

If you are an apartment dweller, you 
can either grow your orchids on window 
sills with filtered sunlight or with grow- 
ing lights in any area. Humidity can be 
provided to them easily. One way is by 
using a pie tin and mason jar lid. Place 
the jar lid in the center of the pan, place 
small pebbles around it, fill with water 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 


to top of lid. Place your plant on the 
lid, but be sure it is not sitting in the 

You will find that you can both grow 
and bloom your plant well with this 
method. Occasional sprayings or mist- 
ings also helps. Deep soak your plant 
once a week by submerging in water and 
allowing to drain well. 

Air Circulation 

A primary requisite of all orchids is 
air circulation. They do not like stag- 
nant air conditions and if you are the 
proud owner of a glasshouse, large or 
small, be sure to have fans for circulation. 
Those growing in lathhouses or patios 
of course are taken care of by nature. 
Growing in the house or apartment would 
be taken care of by the same means that 
it takes to make you comfortable. 

While we have listed the mediums in 
which we grow, we still feel that each 
individual should use the one that best 
suits him, whether it be our selection or 
fir bark, osmundi, or chopped hapu. 
Each person waters differently and this 
in turn reflects on the growing medium. 

There are so many genera to choose 
from, that it is difficult sometimes to 
decide just what you want. All are beau- 
tiful in one way or the other, but one 
genera may grow better in your area. We 
are listing a few things that should be 
easy for the novice to grow and yet in- 
teresting to the advanced orchidist. 

What To Select 

For greenhouse, lathhouse, patio, and 
home : 

Oncidium Cartbaginense: Mule-ear type 
leaves. 3- to 5 -foot semi-erect scapes, 
shortly branched. Small flowers, about 
one inch, with slightly waved segments. 
Basic color is creamy white, heavily spot- 
ted with light pink to deep rose. 
Oncidium Excavatum: Stout, shiny, light 
green pseudobulbs. Leaves up to one foot 
long. Scapes 2 to 5 feet, branched with 
many flowers. Sepals yellow, petals yel- 
low sometimes spotted with red, lip ca- 
nary yellow. Flowers about ll/ 2 inches 
in size. Flowers are mostly at the termin- 
al end of scapes forming a pom-pom 

Oncidium Incurvum: Semi-erect scapes, 
3 to 5 feet long. Dainty flowers about 
one inch across, with sepals and petals 
rose pink, tipped with white. Lip is 
white. This makes up its spike and then 
seems to take forever before it actually 
blooms. The whip-like spike looks as 

though it has already bloomed and care 
must be taken to not cut this when clean- 
ing out old flowers. However, patience 
is rewarded as it suddenly sends out many 
short branches and flowers appear. 
Oncidium Flexuosum: Slab culture only. 
Ascending rhizomes, scapes 3 feet high, 
slender and many flowered. Inch size, 
greenish-yellow marked with red-brown. 
Lip is bright yellow with reddish-brown 
on crest. 

Oncidium Hastatum: Very tall arching 
scapes, sparsely branched, 2 inch flowers, 
star shaped, yellow-green with brown 
markings. Pseudobulbs elongated, about 
2 inches high, with about 5 -inch cattleya 
shaped leaves. 

Oncidium Maculatum: Foot long scapes, 
flowers 2 inches across, yellowish-green, 
blotched with chestnut brown, lip yellow 
and white. Small pseudobulbs and nar- 
row strap like leaves. Long lasting 

Epidendrum Ciliare: White flowers on 
cattleya-like plant. Narrow sepals and 
petals, small fringed lip. Good grower. 
Epidendrum Cochleatum: Called the 
"cockleshell Orchid" because of lip 
shape. Narrow, long sepals and petals, 
yellow-green. Lip almost black. Contin- 
uous flowering. Attractive flexible point- 
ed leaves with flat egg-size pesudobulbs. 
Epidendrum Eloribundum: R e e d - 1 i k e 
growth but nearly y 2 mcn thick. Tall, 
pendulous flowers, inch size, green with 
white lip. 

Epidendrum Hanburii: 2 -inch rounded 
bulbs, dark purplish-green. Spikes about 

2 feet high, branched, with flowers ap- 
proximately 2-inch size, brown in color 
with deep rose lip. The number of spikes 
usually put out by a mature plant, makes 
quite a showy display. 

Epidendrum Radiatum: Bulbs 3 to 5 
inches high, narrow leaves 5 to 8 inches 
long. Flowers up to 2 inches across, 
cream colored, shell-like lip is white with 
radiating purple lines. Very fragrant. 

Laelia Anceps: Flowers 3 to 4 inches 
across, deep rose, with crimson-purple 
lip, side lobes yellow. Short cattleya-like 
leaves, pseudobulbs about 2 inches, angu- 
lar with small depressions. 

Laelia Cinnabarina: Tall growing, with 
12- to 24-inch erect spike. Flowers up to 

3 inches across, pointed segments, bright 
cinnabar red. 

Laelia Cinnabarina var. Cowaniae: Sim- 
ilar to above, but flowers yellow. 
Laelia Elava var. Gloedeniana: Medium 

size plant with elongated pseudobulbs, 
thicker at base. Tall spikes of inch size 
yellow flowers overcast with orange. 
Laelia Perrinii: Cattleya-type growth with 
lovely 5 -inch flat flowers. Sepals and 
petals light rose-mauve with front lobe of 
lip deep crimson, throat white. 
Brassavola Digbyana: A must in every 
collection. Large greenish-white Cattleya- 
type flower with huge fringed lip. Very 
fragrant in evening hours. Plant has 
grayish cast. 

Brassavola Cucullata: Terete type leaves 
with white fragrant spider-like flowers. 
Slightly fringed lip with long narrow 
sepals and petals. 

Cattleya Amethystoglossa: Tall plants. 
Cluster of bright rose, purple spotted 
flowers with magenta-purple lips. 
Cattleya Labiata var. Autumnalis: Large 
growing plants with 8-inch flowers, very 
showy; with color of bright rose with 
deeper lip, frilled and waved, yellow 

Cattleya Warnerii: Labiate type. Very 
large deep rose flowers, with deep crim- 
son lip. Fragrant and long lasting. Very 
robust grower. 

Maxillaria Tenuifolia: A must for every 
orchidist. Small rhizomes with erect rib- 






Rt. 4, Box 367B - West Lilac Road 

Escondido, Calif. 92025 


(located north of Escondido, 4 mi. South 

of Rt. 76. Vi mile WEST of 395. on 

West Lilac Road) 


Saturday and Sunday only. 




bon type leaves like wide blades of grass. 
Ascending or semi -climbing with rhi- 
zomes spaced a few inches apart, with 
base of bulb encased in brown imbricat- 
ing parchment like covering, as is the 
stem bearing the numerous pseudobulbs. 
Flower bracts come from the base of the 
bulbs. These do well planted against 
fern slabs, totem pole effect, as ascending 
plant needs light support. Flowers 1 to 
I 1 /* inches in size, yellow petals and 
sepals spotted heavily with red. Lip same 
coloring with some purple spotting. Re- 
ferred to most commonly as the "coco- 
nut pie orchid," and when in bloom, the 
entire area is as fragrant as a bakery just 
taking fresh baked coconut pies out of 
the oven. 

This is only a very short listing of 
species that will do well in any growing 
area and under most all conditions. Space 
precludes listing many of the unusuals 
that would add to any collection, and yet 
are relatively easy to grow. Most of the 
listed plants are in the price range that 
most anyone can afford. 

So add to your collection, and enjoy 
the species. We are quite sure you will 
be happy that you did. ■ 

Flower Arrangers' Guild 
In "Fiesta de Orquideas" 

Members of the Flower Arrangers 
Guild of San Diego will participate in 
the "Fiesta de Orquideas," Western Or- 
chid Congress Show at the Conference 
Building in Balboa Park, April 17-20. 

Mrs. Ralph Rosenberg, president of 
the Guild, states that the display of 
flower arrangements will carry out the 
200th Anniversary of San Diego theme. 
This will be accomplished by the use of 
appropriate containers and accessories, 
and of course, orchids will be the dom- 
inate plant material. 

The staging of these exhibits will be 
under the supervision of Mrs. J. Wells 
Hershey, Mrs. James F. Terrell, and 
Isamu Kawaguchi. 

The Guild expects to participate, as a 
group, in several plant society shows this 
year in commemoration of the 200th an- 
niversary. This is in lieu of having their 
own annual show. 



ver fifty-five years AGO, in the December, 1906, issue of the "Orchid 
Review," Mr. J. M. Black wrote this amusing little article entitled, "Visitors." 
"In the course of the year you are sure to have a good many visitors, and 
among others, there is sure to drop in, now and then, the individual who, while 
walking through your houses, talks incessantly of the plants he has at home. If 
he deigns at all to pass a remark about one of yours, it will be to compare it — 
unfavorably of course — to one that he flowered last year, has in bud, or saw, 
or heard of, or expects to hear of; but he nearly always has it at home. He will 
jubilate on the immensity of the bulbs his plants are making, and when you come 
to that special feature of yours — • upon which you have come to rather pride 
yourself — ■ he will acclaim, "Ah ! you ought to see mine," and then will follow in 
molecular detail the wonderful treatment by which means only such great attain- 
ments can be gotten. By the time he has finished with you, you will feel limp and 
courageless, and will wonder how on earth you ever came to look on your plants 
as other than the veriest trash. Have as good an opinion of your orchids — and, 
incidentally, yourself — in the future as you have consistently had in the past, 
but do not expect other people to share that opinion in just the same degree." ■ 

Join an Orchid Society — there is one that meets in your area 


here are a number of Orchid Societies in Southern California. The 
members of these Societies have many and varied interests in Orchids, both as 
hobbyists and commercial growers who developed the desire to grow Orchids 
in their homes or glasshouses. 

For fullest enjoyment of growing Orchids, you should become a member 
of the American Orchid Society or the Orchid Digest Corp. (both publish 
excellent magazines) — ■ and your nearest affiliated society. Both will welcome 
you and stand ready to help and guide you in obtaining maximum joy and 
recreation from orchids as a hobby. 

Show your plants at your Society shows and enjoy the thrill of winning 
awards. The Societies meet once each month. The dues are nominal and the 
benefits derived are invaluable. Select the Society you wish to visit or join and 
you will be glad you did. For further details, write the American Orchid Society, 
Inc. Botanical Museum of Harvard University, Cambridge, Mass., 02138 or the 
Orchid Digest, c/o Mrs. John W. Fry, 76 Alpine Ave., Los Gatos, Calif. 95030. 
In the San Diego Area: 

San Diego County Orchid Society, Inc., meeting the first Tuesday of each 
month at 7:30 P.M. in the Floral Bldg., Balboa Park, San Diego. 

Palomar Orchid Society, meeting the 3rd Wednesday each month at 7:30 
P.M. in Room E4, Palomar College, San Marcos. 

Mrs. John C as ale 



You are invited to visit us NOW ... see our beautiful 


• Cymbidiums • Cattleyas • Phalaenopsis « 

Ridgeway Orchid Gardens 

2467 Ridgeway Dr., National City 




APRIL -MAY, 1969 



he hobby of growing orchids has 
increased in popularity as more econom- 
ical potting media have been discovered. 
The use of fir bark and redwood bark 
and fiber have lowered the cost of main- 
taining an orchid collection. The hobby- 
ist can grow his plants and have a wide 
variety of types that previously were en- 
joyed by only a few. 

Other developments made it possible 
for the orchid fancier to have the finest 
quality plants at only a fraction of their 
original price. The first major discovery 
was made by Dr. Knudson of Cornell 
University back in the 1920's. He was 
able to germinate large quantities of or- 
chid seed by sowing them in sterile flasks 
that contained a formula of nutrient agar. 

Knudson came to California and set up 
an orchid laboratory at Armacost & 
Royston in Los Angeles. This organiza- 
tion began to produce a large number of 
orchid hybrids and many of them be- 
came famous stud plants for commercial 
growers around the world. Seedlings of 
these plants were purchased by plant en- 
thusiasts and in discovering that orchids 
could be grown in California by an ama- 


— a growing hobby 

teur, others were encouraged to try or- 

Gradually the California Orchid So- 
ciety developed members throughout the 
State, and local societies were formed to 
advance the appreciation and improve- 
ment of orchids. The San Diego County 
Orchid Society follows in this tradition. 

The second major development came 
in the last decade with the process of 
multiplying orchids known as meristem 
propagation. A Frenchman named Morel 
applied a technique on orchids that had 
been successfully used with carnations 
and carrots. To put it simply, and take 
the risk of over-simplifying a very com- 

by John R. Walters 

plex process, he cut a new growth from 
the mature pseudobulb, and cut off all 
the growth layers until he came to the 
smallest growing tip called the meristem. 
Carefully cutting off this tip under sterile 
conditions, he grew it in a nutrient solu- 
tion until it had multiplied itself. He 
then repeated the process until he had a 
large quantity of plantlets of the exact 
structure of the original plant. 

Plants that once only a connoisseur 
could own are now available at moderate 
prices. Stud plants often sell for hun- 
dreds of dollars for a single bulb. By 
meristem propagation, these highly 
awarded flowers may be grown and ap- 
preciated by a wider public. ■ 


where there is a flower show just about every day of the year. 

Visit our display room; relax by the waterfall, and enjoy a variety of orchids in bloom. 

We stock a full line of orchid supplies for the hobbyist and commercial grower. 

We grow and sell the plants you desire in cattleyas, cymbidiums, phalaenopsis, paphi- 
opedilums (cypripediums) and botanicals. 

We have Open House every year one week before Mother's Day when thousands of 
orchids are in bloom. People drive hundreds of miles to attend this event and our special 

We give you the best service possible. Do pay us a visit. You are always welcome 
whether you are buying or browsing. 



Direct Line 


2005 Armacost Ave. 

W. Los AngeSes, Calif. 90025 


Hrs. 8 to 4:30 daily 
Sat. 8:30 to 4:00 
Sun. 9:00 to 4:00 





by Daniel L. Collin 



consists of four terrestrial genera has for 
over 100 years been one of Europe's most 
popular orchids. An explanation is that 
it is one of the most easily grown orchids 
in the home and garden. Unfortunately, 
Americans have basically ignored its pos- 
sibilities for the reason that for years 
commercial growers have considered the 
plant a poor cut flower crop when the 
Cattleya and other allied genera produced 
so many flowers. This basic fact has 
changed with today's advanced methods 
of growing and a "revival" of this won- 
derful flower is taking place. 

The four terrestrial genera, Paphiope- 
dilum (Asia-most popular), Phragmipe- 
dium (South America), Selenipedium 
(South America) and Cypripedium 
(North Temperate Zones) are common- 
ly referred to as Cypripedium, probably 
because the meaning of Cypripedium 
is translated "Lady Slipper" and all of 
the flowers are similar in form. All are 
most commonly found growing in their 
natural habitat in a medium of decaying 
vegetation at the base of trees, around 
limestone rocks or in swamps, always 
well shaded and near a constant source 
of water. The plants may be divided into 
two groups by the color of their foliage. 
The warm growing types are those with 
the mottled leaf and the cool growing 
types are those with the plain or solid 
green leaf. The cool growing types pre- 
fer a temperature of 55° to 60° night 
temperature and a daytime temperature of 
75° to 80°. The warm growers prefer 
a night temperature of 60° to 65° and a 
day temperature of 75° to 85°. However, 

I have seen both types grown very well 
in Cattleya houses under the benches. 
The cool types may withstand tempera- 
tures as low as 33° for short periods of 

Keep Them Moist 

The basic secret of growing the Cypri- 
pedium family seems to be that you must 
provide them with water, never allowing 
the soil medium to become dry. The Rod 
McLellan Co. has proven this by setting 
15 plants in a tray of water 1 inch deep 
for over 5 years and each year have grown 
well and produced as many flowers as 
those which were watered only two to 
three times per week. Although drastic, 
we have living proof. For years, growers 
have been afraid to allow water into the 
crowns of their plants for fear of rotting 
them off, yet these plants grow in areas 
of swamp, rain or constant spray from 
a waterfall. Keeping these facts in mind, 
we water our plants in the morning hours 
so that the plant has a chance to dry out 
during the day. It is only when water 
is allowed to stand overnight at warm 
temperatures does rot seem to appear. 
This would be especially true of our 
Southern United States areas or rainy 
humid interior valleys. Cypripediums 
seem to grow best between 750 and 1200 
foot candles of light no matter where 
they are located in the United States. 

Soil Medium 

Our soil medium seems the very best 
developed to date. We use a mix of 6 
parts fine seedling bark and 6 parts coarse 
sand. This mix allows good drainage yet 

IP r laiiiilli: 

A beauty from the Rod McLellan Co. 
—Paph. Halo "Spring Shower." HCC 
AOS 11 

keeps the roots moist and firm. Some 
people have added a few chips of dolo- 
mite lime to the bottom of the pot which 
seems to help in those areas where water 
is poor. A basic 25-9-9, 30-10-10 or 30- 
10-20 fertilizer used as recommended 
every second or third watering is proper. 
You can always tell if you overfeed a 
Cypripedium as it will develop rust col- 
ored rings on the under surface of the 
leaf or the leaf tips will turn black and 
begin to shrink. 

Raise Them from Seed 

The challenge of raising Cypripediums 
seems to be from seed. The seed must 
be soaked before sowing and allowed to 
germinate under darkness. Once germi- 
nation starts give it the light normally 
given the Cattleya flask. We keep our 
Cypripedium seedlings at the same tem- 
perature as Cattleya seedlings once out of 
the flask until they are ready for the 3V2 
inch pot, then they are treated as mature 


In hybridizing, surprising results are 
obtained with Cypripediums. As an ex- 
ample Cyp. Acteus Bianca when used 
with a larger flower has produced beauti- 
ful full flowers. Yet, Cyp. Acteus Bianca 
is a rather poorly shaped washed out 
flower. We can trace these strange cir- 
cumstances back to the species them- 

APRIL-MAY, 1969 


Photo from Rod McLellan 
Co., in San Francisco. A 
startling view of the evi- 
dence of variety in Orchid 
flower types. This is Paph. 
Millmoore "Maltese" AM 

selves. Their chromosome numbers range 
from 26 to 48 and their gametes from 13 
to 24. There is even a natural triploid in 
the group. In hybridizing Cypripediums 
the whole chromosome set is involved 
which produced polyploids in primary 
crosses. Each time a further cross was 
made with these polyploids, a higher risk 
of unreduced gametes in the progeny oc- 
curred and more frequently resulting in 
a variety of chromosome counts in plants 
from the same seed pod. For these rea- 
sons, poor seed production has been re- 
ported from many of today's plants. 
Chromosome counts have been recently 
reported in the range of 26 to 29 being 
near diploids to 53, 55, 70 and 92. It 
is therefore advisable for all of us to use 
at least one known plant which produces 

a high amount of viable seed before mak- 
ing a cross. Should you decide to attack 
the problem by counting chromosomes, 
be certain to use a root-tip where chrom- 
osomes at metaphase have a consistent 
morphology. The chromosomes in the 
pollen are nearly impossible to read. 

The possibilities of hybridizing this 
family has not even been touched. Some 
of the species produce long spikes pro- 
ducing 5 to 11 flowers per spike and 
yet few growers have taken advantage of 
this fact. The color range is very good, 
from white, pink, yellow, green, mahog- 
any, maroon and lavender to combina- 
tions of all and con-colors of all. In 
cross-pollinating, make your cross as early 
as possible as it takes as long as 7 weeks 
or more in some cases for the pollen tubes 

to grow. Their long blooming period 
(from October through June at the Rod 
McLellan Co.) gives the grower several 
chances a year to make a cross. 

Virus Free! 

As far as University research has been 
able to determine, the Cypripedium is 
virus free which cannot be stated for most 
other orchids. If fungus appears to be 
rotting your plant at the base or root 
system, simply remove it from the pot, 
wash off all the potting material, divide 
if necessary and repot in fresh material. 
These plants are best repotted right after 
blooming; however, if necessary, they do 
not seem to mind being repotted any 
time of year. As long as drainage is pro- 
Co ntinued page 25 




Recommended by the San Diego Rose Society for San Diego County 

Hybrid Teas Color 

Matterhom W 

Sweet Afton W 

Eclipse MY 

Golden Scepter DY 

Kings Ransom DY 

Summer Sunshine DY 

Peace YB 

Champagne YB 

Lady Elgin YB 

Tropicana OR 

Sutters Gold OB 

Mojave OB 

Royal Highness LP 

First Love LP 

Eiffel Tower MP 

Duet MP 

Bewitched MP 

Mischief MP 

Columbus Queen MP 

Tiffany PB 

Helen Traubel PB 

Granada PB 

Swarthmore PB 

Mister Lincoln MR 

Christian Dior MR 

Chrysler Imperial DR 

Oklahoma DR 

Prima Ballerina LR 

Fragrance LR 

Kordes Perfecta PB 

Invitation AB 

Floribundas Color 

Saratoga W 

Moonsprite W 

Little Darling YB 

Circus YB 
Elizabeth of Glamis MP 

Sarabande OR 

Ginger OR 

Tom Tom LR 

Windred Coulter RB 

Apricot Nectar AB 

Heat Wave MR 

Plain Talk MR 

Roman Holiday RB 

Palm Springs RB 

Grandifloras Color 

Mount Shasta W 

Buccaneer MY 

Montezuma OR 

Queen Elizabeth MP 

Camelot MP 

Pink Parfait PB 

El Capitan MR 

Roundelay DR 

Merry Widow DR 

Climbers Color 

Mrs. Sam McGredy OB 

Sutters Gold YB 
Charlotte Armstrong LR 

Improved Blaze MR 

Joseph's Coat RB 

Miniatures Color 

Jet Trail W 

Yellow Doll MY 

Cri Cri MP 

Beauty Secret MR 

Robin MP 

Eleanor PB 

Pink Cameo (cl.) MP 

Toy Clown PB 

Hi Ho (cl.) LR 


Top quality, variety and large stock of 



New Location: 

(Take Paiomar Rd. off-ramp and to left to the 
west side of the freeway) 









lans for the new Garden-Cultural 
Building in Balboa Park are in the making. 
The building, to be constructed starting 
late this year, is the long-awaited replace- 
ment for the now demolished Food & 
Beverage Building. 

According to Mrs. Dorothy Orndorff, 
scheduling chairman for the Botanical 
Foundation, forms have been sent to all 
clubs asking what they will need in the 
building. Richard George Wheeler, archi- 
tect, and Sam Hamill, consultant, will be 
utilizing these with an eye to incorporat- 
ing the information into their planning 
of the building. 

San Diego will have a truly outstand- 
ing Botanical section of the park with this 
new building. It is adjacent to the fa- 
mous Botanical Building located at one 
end of the lily pond, adjacent to the Zoo 
with its botanical specialties, the rose gar- 
den and the Natural History Museum. 

Educational features will be offered to 
the general public, as well as new ideas 
from the specialty clubs. For instance, 
presentations such as Richard Streeper's 
recently given on how to start roses from 
seed; how to start ferns from spores; how 
to start dahlias; and, of course, basics in 
horticulture for children. 

It is hoped that classes will be made 
available for the public after the building 
is completed. 


"lower Shop 

5870 AYENIDA ENCINAS, CARLSBAD 92008 Phone Toil-Free 753-1 1 96, or 729-1 1 28 


Flowers for all Occasions 

3334 Fifth Ave. 291-6111 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 



by John R. Walters 

Why Not Relax, Too? O 

/ L thousa 

Garden at Monte Vista Lodge, San Diego's full-service retirement residence. 


ere's the place to relax; to fully enjoy your retirement. Your own private, 
ground-level apartment with maid service. Three meals daily, selecting your 
favorites from a variety of menus. Special diets as needed. Your own kitchenette 
for snacks. Scheduled transportation downtown each day, plus frequent recrea- 
tional trips. Complete infirmary with nurses on duty 'round-the-clock. Audi- 
torium, library, TV center, beauty shop. Heated swimming pool, shuffleboard, 
and other recreational facilities. Personal laundry service. And more. 

or stay for a lifetime; the choice is yours. Pay only the first and last months' rent. 

PLAN NOW TO VISIT US. We're just a few blocks south of Highway 94 . . . 
only minutes from downtown San Diego. Phone or write Robert Beasley, Director, 
and let us know when you're coming; or ask for additional information, and we'll 
send it by return mail. We look forward to hearing from you. 


Telephone (714) 465-1331 
2211 Massachusetts Avenue • Lemon Grove, California 92045 

rchid hobbyists number in the 
thousands in Southern California. They 
may have a greenhouse for growing their 
favorite varieties or they may select any 
place in the home, since many orchids can 
be acclimated to California living. 

The general practice for having orchids 
in the home consists of providing enough 
light, moisture around the plant and 
good air circulation. We began our cat- 
tleya collection this way. A large glass 
baking dish was filled with coarse white 
gravel. The plant was placed so the 
blooms could be seen, and appreciated. 

We took the advice of placing the plant 
near a window. The large west window 
would provide a good amount of light, but 
it also got pretty warm on the coffee table 
in that location. 

We decided on a smaller south win- 
dow. The radio and stereo provided a 
good display stand for the large white 
blooms. This area was also out of the 
way of drafts from the air ducts and 
would not dry out the flowers. After we 
had the plant situated, we added a couple 
of cups of tap water to the gravel. 

We had purchased the plant with one 
flower partially open and with two more 
buds about ready to open. That thrill 
of conquest was followed by the haunting 
thought that maybe the other buds would 
not open for us. 

Every time we went into the living 
room for the next several days we won- 
dered, "Have we done it the right way, 
and will they reward us for all the time 
we had studied?" Fortunately, we did 
not have to wait long. We thought we 
noticed some changes in the buds the 
very next morning. The following day, 
we were sure, for the tip end of the buds 
were beginning to unlock their tight 
seams. Before long we had three hand- 
some flowers growing in our home. These 
lasted for two weeks before the oldest 
bloom fell. 

By this time we were "hooked" and 
we selected the dark lavender orchid to 
take its place. For about the next year 
we were never without an orchid bloom 
in that spot. When the plants were fin- 
ished blooming, we placed them in our 
den among the bookcases under an east 
window. In the summer they were placed 
in our patio. 

So — why wait for a greenhouse? ■ 




he genus Phalaenopsis (pro- 
nounced Fal-en-op-siss), also commonly 
called the "Moth Orchid" is one of the 
most charming, graceful, and beautiful of 
all orchids. The name Phalaenopsis is 
derived from the Greek words "Phal- 
aina," meaning moth, and "opsis," mean- 
ing resembling, because of its similarity 
to certain tropical moths. 

The 50 species of this genus are widely 
distributed throughout the Asiatic trop- 
ics, from India to Indonesia; however, 
the majority and the most magnificent of 
these come from the Philippine Islands. 

Mature plants will flower from two to 
four times a year. The flower spikes are 
tall and gracefully arched, carrying as 
many as thirty blooms on an unbranched 
stem. Blooms will last as long as three 
months. When the last of the flowers 
begin to wilt, the flower stem may be cut 
just below the node where the first flower 
on the stem was. Usually a lower node 
will initiate a secondary spike within two 
to four weeks when this is done. Within 
85-95 days on the average, the first flower 
on the secondary spike will open. The 
flowers are sometimes smaller as is the 
case with spikes which are allowed to 

The cultural requirements of Phal- 
aenopsis are relatively simple, making 
them an ideal plant whether grown in 
the greenhouse or home. The following 
is a brief summary of cultural methods 
which have proved to be very rewarding. 


A minimum night temperature of 62- 
65 degrees is required for optimum 
growth, but temperature as low as 50 
degrees will not harm the plant. Actual- 
ly, contrary to orthodox Phalaenopsis cul- 
ture, the lowering of the night tempera- 
ture to 55 degrees for a period of 2-4 
weeks, will induce the plants to initiate 
flower spikes. The day temperature should 
range between 75-85 degrees, although 
temperatures as high as 100 degrees for 
short periods of time will cause no harm 
if proper humidity and air movement are 


relative humidity of around 60-70%. 


Phalaenopsis do best with a light intensity 
of 900-1200 foot candles. During dull 
winter months, this may be increased 
gradually to 1500 foot candles to harden 
the plants up. 

Watering and Feeding 

Always water early in the morning so 
that the plants are dry by night. The 
frequency of watering will depend on 
the potting media used and on the type 
of pot (plastic or clay), and the size. 
The media should always be damp, not 
soaking wet, and it should never be al- 
lowed to become completely dry. If 
grown in fir bark, Phalaenopsis should 
be fed every other watering with a ferti- 
lizer such as Blue Ribbon Grow 8-4-4, or 
Formula 3-1-2, Orchid plant food. If 
grown in osmunda or hapu, Phalaenop- 
sis should be fed only once or twice a 
month. The application of Sequestrene 
330 FE iron chelates once every three 
months is quite beneficial to the health 
and appearance of Phalaenopsis. Iron 
chelates also help to lower the pH. 

Re-Potting, Potting Media, 
and Dividing 

Phalaenopsis plants should be re-potted 
at least every eighteen months. Potting 
is usually done during the summer as the 
plants are in active growth at this time 
of year, and they will become reestab- 
lished quite readily. The choice of pot- 
ting media is up to the individual. Os- 
munda, hapu, fir bark, redwood chips 
or pumice may be used with success. Fir 
bark is by far the most popular and 
easiest media to use. It can also be noted 
that fir bark seems to stimulate good root 

Ventilation and Humidity growt h. if fi r bark is used size l/ 4 " to 

Good air movement is essential for 
good plant growth. Fans should be used 
all night and during cloudy, damp weath- 
er. Good air circulation helps to prevent 
bacterial diseases and flower spotting by 
botrytis. Phalaenopsis plants enjoy a 

i/ 2 " or the y 4 " to %" is best. 

At the time of repotting, all dead roots 
should be cut off, and the old stump 
below the new roots may be cut off. How- 
ever, mature plants can be divided by 
cutting off the top portion of the plant, 

by Elwood J. Carlson 

just above the surface of the potting 
media, provided the top portion has an 
adequate number of roots to sustain itself 
when potted. Seal the cut on both the 
top portion and lower portion (stump) 
with tree seal or dust with sulphur. Pot 
the top portion of the plant in the normal 
manner, but do not disturb the stump. 
Within three to six weeks, one or more 
plantlets will sprout from the stump. 
When these plantlets have reached suffi- 
cient size and have roots two or three 
inches long, remove them from the stump 
and pot them in the normal manner. 

After re-potting, it is advisable not to 
water until the following day so that any 
roots injured during re-potting can heal. 
If the plant is watered before all injuries 
are healed, bacterial or fungal disease 
may develop in the injured areas. Since 
Phalaenopsis are re-potted every eighteen 
months there is no need to use a pot over 
10" in diameter for even the largest 

Plastic pots have a considerable ad- 
vantage over other containers in that they 
are less expensive, light, and they retain 
moisture much longer, thus requiring less 
watering than when clay pots are used. 
Also, salt deposits do not build up in 
plastic pots, again allowing the advantage 
of healthier root tips and less dead roots. 


Mealy bugs, thrip, slugs and snails are 
probably the worst pests that bother Phal- 
aenopsis. Slugs and snails can be con- 
trolled with products which contain 
metaldehyde; Q.U.E. Bane Slug and 
Snail Bait, Last-Bite, and Corry's Slug 
and Snail are very effective. Mealy bug, 
thrip, and the majority of other pests can 
be controlled by use of insecticides such 
as Malathion, Isotox or Cygon. Maintain 
a monthly spray program; it will pay 


Remember that virus can be transmitted 
by contaminated cutting tools, pots, and 


APRIL -MAY, 1969 

TRIBUTE TO A FRIEND . . . Tom Craig 

Continued from page 7 

hybrid ... a cross of SNOW FLURRY X 
CAPITOLA which he thought was his 
best introduction and described it as a 
(Blue Ox X Chivalry) a deep violet blue 
self also made its debit the same year. 
Rancho de Las Flores was one of the 
most outstanding gardens on display dur- 
ing the 1956 National Convention of the 
American Iris Society. 

Many Awards 

Throughout the years progress con- 
tinued with the same dogged devotion 
and enthusiasm to improve his beloved 
iris. His almost stubborn tenacity brought 
him still greater awards. A member of 
the American Iris Society, he was ap- 
pointed a Senior Judge after 20 years of 
faithful service. Twenty-four Honorable 
Mention Awards went to the Craig origi- 
nations . . . two Awards of Merit — Bang 
and Frances Craig. In 1959 the Aril So- 
ciety inaugurated the first C. G. White 
Memorial Award and this went to the 
lovely MARY McLELLAN, followed by 
the Sass Award (top award for an Inter- 
mediate Iris) for MOONCHILDin 1961. 
Then the coveted Hybridizers Medal was 
presented to Tom in 1963. 

His very early work with gladiolus and 
his present day ventures with daylilies as 
well as his interest in the Spuria iris 
should also fit in with this article but 
time and deadline do not permit proper 
research into these adventures. 

Always in search of better growing 
conditions for his iris, and the vast num- 
ber of seedlings he grew each year, Tom 
purchased acreage in Hubbard, Oregon 
(about 1965) and during the past few 
years commuted between the two gardens. 
He felt the disappointments and loss of 
plant life we all suffered was not due to 
the plant itself but rather in our failure 
in choosing the proper iris (or plant) 
suitable for the area in which we live. 
As beautiful as some may grow in Oregon 
they would fail to produce in Southern 
California. Thus ... to understand the 
growing conditions and to know the back- 
ground of the plant would be a vital fac- 

tor in selecting the correct iris for our 
own garden. 

So far I have concentrated on his work 
in connection with the world of flowers 
but we still have Tom the Artist and 
Teacher. His love of painting was for- 
ever present and his keen sense of color- 
ing is shown in the many fine water- 
color paintings he has skillfully created. 
I was fortunate to see his art studio at 
Escondido and to view the many beauti- 
ful paintings displayed on the walls so it 
is no wonder that in this field too he col- 
lected various awards. He served as in- 
structor in Art in Occidental College, San 
Diego Museum, University of California, 
and the Chouinart Art Institute at Los 
Angeles. He held a one man art show 
in San Diego (1930) and won the Blair 
Prize in an International Water Color 
Show in Chicago before World War II. 
Finally his talents won him a Guggen- 
heim Fellowship in Art. 

Tom as a person . . . a friend 

We now start to draw our story to a 
close and the most difficult part of all . . . 
Tom the Man. What kind of a person 
was he? What was he like as a personal 
friend? To spend a few hours in "just 

talking" with such a man is hard to de- 
scribe without getting a bit sentimental, 
but surely to be treasured in one's mem- 
ory. Warm and generous . . . eager and 
willing to share his knowledge with 
others were but a few of his many virtues. 
A true individualist, doing what he 
wanted when he wanted, which enabled 
him to express his moods in a fashion 
only he could do. His hearty laugh and 
personality was as vibrant as his talents. 
To escape the spell of this irresistible man 
was . . . impossible. 

He passed away at his ranch home at 
Escondido February 8th, 1969, shortly 
after his return from Oregon. Yet, when 
Spring awakens the earth he loved so 
much and his colorful flowers burst into 
bloom, do you think he will be too far 
away ? His heritage to all of us is indeed 
great. We of the flower world know, 
and must face the fact that in the midst 
of life, there must be an inevitable with- 
ering away! To live in the hearts we 
leave behind is not to die ! 

Barbara Serdynski, 3433 Laclede Ave., 
Los Angeles, Cal. 90039. 

(Earlier facts in this article were used 
with the permission of the Aril Society, 

Do you have spare copies of back issues of California Garden? 
If so, please contact Mrs. Clarence Benson, 
3640 Crown Point Dr., San Diego, CA 92109 • 274-1626 









BOX 15531 SAN DIEGO. CALIF. 92115 



Cypr iped iums 

Continued from page 20 
vided they may be potted in plastic, clay 
or fancy glazed pots. Of course the clay 
pot requires a more frequent watering 
than the plastic or glazed pots. 

These plants may be grown in the 
home, lathhouse, greenhouse and even 
out of doors in frost free areas along the 
West Coast. Their lasting quality is ex- 
cellent, most will last on the plant six 
to eight weeks and cut flowers from two 
to three weeks. They are excellent as a 
daytime corsage flower as they lend them- 
selves so harmoniously to the colors and 
textures of women's suits. Easily grown 
by amateur and commercial grower alike, 
there is recently a noticeable revitalization 
of interest in this genus. ■ 


You Can Grow Cattleya Orchids 

"You can grow orchids" is the con- 
vincing affirmation of the series of paper- 
backs written by Mary Noble. These 
books are designed to help the novice 
gain confidence in growing and enjoying 

The new title in her series is one of 
the most informative books yet produced 
on a single genera. It is so well written 
that a beginner can refer to it as a hand- 
book for all aspects of cattleya culture. 
Its non-technical style is accompanied by 
illustrations and pictures to enhance one's 
knowledge of the cattleya group of 

Miss Noble has included 57 black and 
white photographs of cattleya alliance 
flowers and plants. Line drawings by 
Marion Ruff Sheehan show details of 
flower structures. Other examples of the 
47 illustrations include plates of plant 
forms and flower types. 

Not all orchids are orchid color. To 
prove to the reader that cattleyas come 
in many other colors than the traditional 
lavender or white, Miss Noble chose 25 
color plates of cattleyas in red, yellow, 
white and green. 

A glossary of terms "The Language 
of Orchids" will be a helpful reference 
for all orchidists. The table of "Genus 
Names" will aid in understanding the 
numerous genera combined in hybridizing 
the modern cattleya. 

For those who want to study the vari- 

ous potting media in current use, Miss 
Noble gives the proportions of each sub- 
stance. Directions and illustrations for 
potting are included for those who have 
missed the potting demonstration classes. 
One of the valuable contributions of 
this new text is the table of insecticides 
and the suggested dosage for the common 
orchid pests. 

Gordon Dillon reviewed the book in 
the July 1968 issue of the American Or- 
chid Society Bulletin (p. 576). He con- 
cluded his review with the statement that 
"this booklet should prove to be as de- 
servedly popular to novices as Miss 
Noble's other books of this nature. Its 
broad but concise content should make 
it equally useful to experienced growers 
as well." 

This book should become a basic text 
for orchid growers everywhere. Many 
novice classes will want to include this 
excellent book in the list of required 

— /. R. Walters 


CALL 234-5344 

121 W. Juniper-Just off first Ave. Bus 

Convenient Parking 

Orange County 
Fuchsia Show Set 

The Fifteenth Annual Fuchsia & Shade 
will be presented by the California Na- 
tional Fuchsia Society at the Orange 
County Fair Grounds in Costa Mesa, 
June 20-21-22. Open to the public Fri- 
day June 20, 2 p.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday, 
June 21, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday, June 
22, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

Objective theme "FUCHSIA FAN- 
TASY" is the key to a bonanza of dis- 
plays by the various branches of the 
Fuchsia Society. Sweepstakes trophy and 
other awards combine to create a competi- 
tive atmosphere. Additional Awards will 
be extended to Garden Clubs and indi- 
viduals entering companion shade plants 
such as African Violets, Begonias, Ferns, 
Bromeliads, Orchids, Gloxinias and Flora! 
Arrangements, among others. In addition, 
many Commercial growers will enhance 
the beauty of the "FUCHSIA FANTA- 
SY" show with their outstanding displays. 

Visitors will be welcomed by a King 
and Queen, chosen to reign at the show. 
They will assist the Master of Ceremonies 
in the prize drawings, donated by mer- 
chants, nurseries, restaurants, and many 
other commercial and individual friends 
of the Fuchsia Society. Price of admission 
—Adults $1.00, Students 50c. 

Best wishes for a successful 


1220 41st AVENUE. SANTA CRUZ, CA. 95060 

Complete Selection of CACTI & OTHER SUCCULENTS 



396 N. Highway 101 
Interstate 5 to Encinitas Road Off-Ramp, West to 101 Then North '/» Mile 

Closed Tuesdays Phone 753-5192 



Carlson Travel Service, Inc. H| 



APRIL -MAY, 1969 






Two orchids showing the wide variations in flower types 




stakes. Be sure to flame cutting tools and 
stakes each time that they are used. Wash 
used pots in a strong solution of Clorox. 
Always keep your hands clean when han- 
dling plants as virus can easily be spread 
this way. It is advantageous in the long 
run to destroy all plants with virus since 
they can be a direct source of infection 
to your entire collection. 

If you have not yet tried the beautiful 
Phalaenopsis, get one soon. Your Phal- 
aenopsis will reward you with a profusion 
of blooms and a magnificent array of 
colors throughout the year, year after 
year. ■ 


Did you know that an unusual and 
customary flower event, which revolves 
around one red rose, occurs every year in 
West Grove, Pennsylvania? 

During September, a red rose is pre- 
sented to a descendant of William Penn. 
Last year the rose was given to Miss 
Miriam Penn-Gaskell Hall, on behalf of 
the Conard-Pyle Company, Star Rose 

The rose is rent payment for lands in 
accordance with a deed executed in 1731. 
This September the celebration will mark 
the 238th anniversary of the first red rose 
payment. ■ 


The Soil Amendment specified by professional 
gardeners and commercial growers 



The only true Organic Fertilizer that supplies the humus 
and necessary nutrients for San Diego soils. 


A by Frank Fordyce 

short time ago, my daughter presented me with a question that ulti- 
mately led me to some rather startling observations. Her simple childlike 
question was, "Daddy, what is a weed?" 

Upon checking our dictionary, I found that a weed is a plant that grows 
where it is not wanted. 

My daughter then said, "Why do you grow orchids? Some of them look 
like weeds." 

In searching for a simple answer, the weight of the real truth came upon 
me in the fact that something not wanted in one place may be highly prized 
in another. It could be said that the status of a weed may be determined by 
a point of view. ■ 




OVER 170 Hardy Named varieties, Pink, Red, 
through Purple, Blue and Green. 10 for $3.35 
Postpaid. Oakhill Gardens, Route 3, Box 87K, 
Dallas, Oregon 97338. 

Readers! Gardeners! 

Send your ad in NOW to Editor Vir- 
ginia Norell, 9173 Overton Avenue, 
San Diego, California 92123. Mini- 
mum charge, $1.00 per line (or ap- 
proximately seven words per line). 
Please send remittance with your 
copy by May 10 for the June-July 

Classified Ads Cost Little 
and Bring Great Returns 


CALL 755-1758 

302 SO. NARDO (Just Off Skyline Drive) 

Arbor Day Gift 

Mr. Clem Runner of La Mesa Nursery 
and Mr. Del Johnston of Yoshi's Nursery 
presented the 200th Anniversary with a 
Brisbane Box Tree in honor of Arbor 
Day from the California Nurserymen 
Association, San Diego Chapter. 

The tree was planted in the Pink Plaza, 
Fiesta 200 area, on Friday, March 7th. 


2500 Fire Mountain Drive 

Oceanside, California 92054 

Phone 714/757-1800 
Open Daily 1 to 5 P.M. 

San Diego's leading orchid hybridizer and pioneer of meristem tissue culture. When the finest 
of all flowers becomes important to you, visit our extensive growing range located in a lovely 
setting on top of Fire Mountain, above Oceanside . . . Only 45 minutes from downtown San 


Interstate 5 to Highway 78 turnoff. Right on 78 to El Camino Real 
off-ramp. Left on El Camino Real to top of hill. Left on Fire Moun- 
tain for approximately 1 mile. 

Happy Orchidizing — From Fordyce Paradyce! 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 




does she admit to any good intentions. 
This aphorism sums up the sins which are 
committed by orchid growers, large and 
small. Stated another way, the basic law 
of cause and effect applies in all our grow- 
ing. We make a mistake and we pay the 
price. If we do spray our plants for 
red spider, we suffer the consequences — 
damaged foliage. Your Cymbidiums are 
in bloom and you know you have slugs 
and snails, but do not put out the bait. 
You pay the price, flowers full of holes. 

We are now well into spring and most 
of our Cymbidiums have finished flower- 
ing. Many of the plants need shifting on 
or dividing. We must do the things that 
need doing to our Cymbidium plants at 
this time, or we will pay the price in 
blooms next spring. Sometimes this price 
is quite high in no blooms, or flowers of 
poor quality. The seasonal changes in 
culture which we must give our plants at 
this time are perhaps more drastic and dra- 
matic than for any other genus of orchids. 
When they are in bloom, from January 
through April, we grow them cool and 
keep them well shaded to prolong the 
flowering and develop optimum flower 
quality. As soon as late April or May 
comes we must turn everything topsy- 
turvy and think of only one thing — 
growth. We want to force our plants so 
as to get the new growths up so they will 
be well developed by late summer and 
early fall to initiate spikes for next sea- 
son's blooms. May is the time when we 
must "make hay." 

Before we go into the details of what 
must be done in the spring, let us start 
a calendar year to establish the perspective 
and see the contrast. Throughout the late 
fall and winter, our spikes have already 
shown and we do not have to worry about 
getting our plants to spike. Now, we must 
concern ourselves with maintaining opti- 
mum conditions to develop our spikes. 
The days are short and there is not much 
light. Watch for slugs and snails and 
give them a nitrogen feeding on sunshiny 
days to get up the spikes. As we get to 
February and March and they are in 
bloom, we must keep them cool at all 

Make Hay in April-May for Next Year's Blooms 

times (not over 80 degrees), shade them 
quite heavily (around 1,000-foot candles, 
more or less) and have good air circula- 
tion. Do not let the house get hot and 
do keep your plants well watered. With 
these conditions the spikes develop best, 
the flowers have the clearest color, and 
last the longest. 

We also minimize some of the dangers 
of bud development, such as twisting and 
turning of petals, and fading of colors 
from too much light. 

Light and Heat 

We are now into May and the bloom- 
ing season is over. Our shady, cool wood- 
land glen, with delicate blooming Cym- 
bidium must be changed. Off comes the 
shading to bring light into our house — 
glaring bright. Now that the growing 
season is with us, we want heat — lots of 
heat, night and day. We want lots of 
water — keep the plants wet, if they are 
in good health and growing well. Give 
your plants a good soaking — drenching 
— ■ letting lots of water run through the 
bottom of the pot, two or three times a 
week. Put some high nitrogen, slowly 
water soluble organic top dressing on the 
surface of your pots, so that every time 
they get a watering, they will get some 
food. Give them the regular fertilizer 
program of high nitrogen, 30-10-10, 1 
tbsp. to 1 gal. (one pound to a hundred 
gallons water) every week or ten days. 
Let your night temperatures run to what- 
ever it may. If the nights are warm, leave 
your ventilators open. Let your tempera- 
tures in the daytime run up into the 80's 
and perhaps well into the 90's. If your 
plants are out of doors, make sure that 
you have light saran only over them, or 
lath which is not too close. If they are 
shaded by trees, full sun without burning 
their leaves is what you want. Between 
the first and the 10th of August, switch 
over to a 6-30-30 low nitrogen, high 
phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, but keep 
up the water and light till all the spikes 
have shown, in October or November. 


Now let us go back to May. We have 
some repotting at this time to do. All 

by E. Hetherington 

plants which have filled the container 
with growth, but which do not need di- 
viding, should be shifted on without delay 
to a larger container. How do you tell 
a simple shift on? Plants which are 
seedlings or which have from 5 to 9 bulbs 
with leaves and only one or two, or no 
back bulbs, should not be divided. Basic- 
ally, a plant flowers best when it has been 
left undivided longest, and is the largest. 
If, however, you do have plants which 
need dividing, the sooner the better at 
this time. 

Divide plants which are quite large and 
which have a number of leafless, rootless 
back bulbs in their centers. Try and di- 
vide so that you obtain divisions of leaved 
pseudobulbs of from 3 to 6 bulbs each. 
Back bulbs, if the varieties are good, may 
be removed and stripped of all leaf 
stumps, and roots. They should then be 
planted to 1/3 of their depth, where they 
will form new plants. 

The care of plants after dividing is very 
important. Dividing is quite a shock. 
The best care after division is to put them 
in a shady spot which is quite warm and 
very humid. Give them a good drink 
after repotting and spray a couple of times 
a day, if possible. 

As soon as you see a good growth 
and perhaps root action, move the plants 
to a bright house or area and give the 
normal care of plants at this time. 

May is a good time to shift on all small 
seedlings, or any plants that will benefit 
from fresh potting mix and a larger pot 
size. With small seedlings we are inter- 
ested only in growth the year around un- 
til they reach maturity. Consequently, 
they like lots of heat, water, and high 
nitrogen fertilizer. 

By observing the basic cultural pro- 
cedures which we have outlined, a suc- 
cessful blooming season the following 
year is assured. If our new growths are 
large enough in the late summer and early 
fall and we give them enough light, plus 
a temperature change between night and 
day, we will have a good crop of flowers 
the following spring. g 



Leaves from a California Florist's Notebook 


Editor's Foreword: The following excerpt is another from Miss Alice M. Rainford's 
projected book, rich in floricultural, horticultural and artistic knowledge and exper- 
ience. The book will be called "Leaves from a California Florists' Notebook." 
Through its pages (much of which will be previewed in California Garden through- 
out this 200th Anniversary year), will be found many fascinating sidelights of persons 
and events of days gone by. We are indebted to Miss Rainford, and to Mrs. Alice 
Clark who has been responsible for compiling Miss Rainford's writing on this subject, 
particularly treasured by the readers of this magazine. 


ith popularity of the new and 
exotic styles added to our older and cus- 
tom styles of furniture, flowers can be dis- 
played in more imaginative and artistic 
ways than ever before. However, if 
flowers are to enhance and beautify, they 
should be in harmony with the decor of 
the room. 

Their colors should be chosen in rela- 
tion to the background and they should 
be arranged in containers and in styles 
suited to their environment. Tropical or 
exotic flowers will lose their effect in Vic- 
torian or rustic settings. Nor is a simple 
bowl of garden flowers, so at home in a 
cottage, adaptable for Victorian or formal 
modern decor. Always choose vases and 
flowers that will enhance the design of 
the room. 

Rugs and hangings generally have a 
secondary color blended with the domi- 
nant one. Flowers that reflect that note 
have an enjoyable effect, a lift that is like 
spices added to cuisine. A splash of color 

in the center of a flower often gives 
nature's hint of attractive color combina- 

A quick method to make sure of a com- 
plementary color is to place a flower petal 
or a piece of ribbon of the color in ques- 
tion on a large sheet of white paper and 
concentrate a fixed stare on it for a few 
minutes. Remove the colored material, 
continue to gaze at the empty spot and 
the complementary color will appear; 
tones of yellow following blue, etc. 

For rooms furnished in dark wood, 
often highlighted with upholstery and 
drapes of a golden tone, select flowers in 
blends of yellow. If textile decorations 
are in deeper shades of rust or brown, try 
copper or flame colored roses or snap- 
dragons. In the fall it is easy to find a 
wide range of colors from yellow to 
flame in chrysanthemums and dahlias. 

A variety of flower colors are good 
with blond woods but watch out for the 
chair covers and drapes which are often 

A Compliment For Miss Rainford 

Information Center 
House of Hospitality 
Balboa Park— March 25th 

Editor, California Garden 

/ must tell you that the preview: 
most fascinating article. 

I have long admired Miss Rainford, 
as having, along with Kate Sessions, 
made a considerable contribution to local 

appreciation of horticulture as a value in 
civic beauty. 

This article intrigued me particularly 
because of the interpretation, psychologic- 
ally, of color as it is found in nature. 

Having been aware of color values in 
art and music, I found Miss Rainford's 
discussion of feelings produced by various 
flowers a new thought. 

I shall look forward to subsequent 
chapters of the book in California Gar- 

Sincerely yours, 
Florence Christman 

brilliant. In this case match your flowers 
to the bright reds or vivid pinks or use a 
preponderance of greenery. When orange 
accessories predominate there are soft 
shades of pale yellow in gladiolus, zin- 
nias and dahlias. If there's a small 
amount of orange, strelitzias may be ef- 

Strong colors in furnishings take away 
the exquisite tone of pale pink blossoms, 
so lovely in the garden. Light pink roses 
in an all-white room is exquisite. Long 
sprays of single pink roses are beautiful 
on a white mantle and may be artistic 
with the beautiful dainty white clusters 
of Clematis paniculate, which may trail 
gracefully over the bowl. 

Pink is also good in a room dominated 
by a Chinese rug with its inimitable sub- 
dued tones of blue, pink and ivory. 

A large off-white crackleware vase in 
Ming pottery is perfect, with either white 
or pink fruit blossoms, in such a setting. 
A Chien Lung vase, with a soft blue or- 
namentation in simple geometrical pat- 
tern, harmonizes beautifully with a Chi- 
nese rug. It is especially handsome when 
filled with nelumbium, the very pink 
water lily of the orient, often miscalled 
lotus. The long stiff stem standing high 
above the water makes it desirable for 
decoration. In addition to the delightful 
fragrance, a bit of wax in the center will 
hold the blossom open at night. 

Rose shades in room scheme call for 
flowers of white, cream and light blues, 
although shades of rich dark red (such as 
roses and gladiolus) make a fine contrast. 

Pale green walls are a wonderful back- 
ground for all flowers. Soft gray green 
is lovely for the deeper pink flowers such 
as sprays of antigonun vine, rubrum lilies 
and pink asters which are available in late 
spring and summer. 
(To be continued in our June-July issue) 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 



by Ed Bechowsky, Butler's Mill 

Spring and summer months usually 
bring out the desire to plant new trees, 
shrubs, ground covers or lawns. But 
where we have problem soils as we do 
in San Diego County, it is true that the 
new plantings may be on the way out 
soon after planting. 

The major problem with our soils is 
not what plant nutrients may be lacking 
nearly so much as what physical changes 
are needed before planting. 

You can always add fertilizer to soil 
if that's all it lacks. The big problem with 
all but very sandy soils is that once they 
are planted and watered they become 
more and more compacted. As the soil 
becomes more tightly packed, you could 
compare the condition to hardening of 
the arteries. Water, nutrients, oxygen and 
roots have a harder and harder time get- 
ting through, and waste carbon dioxide 
gas doesn't escape. 

Much has been learned about adding 
organic matter to soils in recent years and 
how this compaction or tight soil problem 
can be alleviated. We know that all or- 
ganic matter will fluff up soil at first but 
we find that after a few months the tight- 
ness in a soil will vary depending on 
the material used. 

The reason that all organic matter is 
not the same is due to the amount of 
cellulose in each material. Once the 
organic material is in the soil, it is at- 
tacked by soil bacteria. So the higher 
amount of cellulose in any material, the 
more completely it is consumed by bac- 

Research has shown that if organic 
matter is burned just short of combus- 
tion (by placing it in an acid bath and 
then heating it to 1500° in a closed 
burner for a short time) that it is left 

only with a lignin shell. This lignin shell 
is comparable to our bone structure rep- 
resenting the lignin and the water in 
our bodies likened to cellulose. 

One product that has been treated in 
this manner is called Loamite. This ma- 
terial is made by taking 100 yards of 
redwood or fir sawdust and treating it 
in the acid and heat treatment. Only 15 
yards of the final Loamite product is 
made from the original 100 yards. Since 
the cellulose has been burned off, the 
Loamite is highly resistant to bacterial 
attack. Usage over the past 15 years has 
proven that Loamite keeps its form in 
the soil and indications are that it will 
last at least 20 years. Most of the organic 
material that we use lasts from 6 months 
to $ l / 2 years in the soil. 

The major cause for plant failure in 
a compacted soil is lack of sufficient air. 
Thus we can see what happens when the 
organic amendment is consumed by bac- 
teria — it isn't there to keep the soil par- 
ticles apart and sufficient air is not avail- 
able for roots to survive. 

Another insurance for the best possible 
plant growth is the use of the slow re- 
lease Agriform Planting tablets. These 
tablets do not dissolve and are broken 
down by bacteria in the soil over a full 
year. As the bacteria work on the tablet 
the nutrients are released so the plant 
roots receive a small amount of food over 
a year's time. This fertilization means no 
ups and downs in plant growth so strong- 
er roots develop. This is the new method 
of fertilization that is widely used in com- 
mercial landscaping. These tablets come 
in various sizes — from a 5 gram one for 
ice plant, ivy and other ground covers 
to the 21 gram tablet for 1 gallon size 
plants and larger. ■ 


We welcome readers' contributions. If you have an idea for an article you'd like to 
write, phone the editor, who will be glad to assist you with it. Or, pass on those handy 
tips we all enjoy running onto; write a letter to the editor if you have something to 
say that you think our readers would like to hear. We enjoy hearing from you, and 
welcome new contributors. Write or phone: Mrs. Virginia Norell, Editor, Califor- 
nia Garden magazine, 9173 Overton Avenue, San Diego, California 92123. 277- 
8893. Copy is due 30 days before publication. (Tenth of January, March, May, July, 
September, November.) 








JUNE- JULY 1969 

A fascinating peek into 
San Diego's horticultural 
past — as well as the latest 
growing information. 

Every Sunday afternoon 

you are invited to 


Sponsored by 



You Are Invited 
To Visit 


See our Directory 
on Page 35 




Melocactus Oaxacensis 


by Gilbert D. Voss 


he genus melocactus Link & Otto 
{Cactus L.) is characterized by the pres- 
ence of a terminal cephalium composed of 
interlocking spirals of florif erous tubercles. 
These tubercles have areoles which are 
spineless, but very woolly and usually 
with a varying number of bristles. The 
plants are small, rarely meter high, glob- 
ose to cylindric in shape, and composed 
of nine to twenty wide ribs bearing 
areoles, with relatively stiff clusters of 

The small pinkish flowers, which arise 
from the top of the cephalium, are short 
lived and appear in the mid-afternoon. 
They usually open only with extreme heat. 
The edible fruits are large and range 
from red to pink (rarely white) in color. 

The taxonomy of Melocactus is confus- 
ing owing to its age as a generic entity 
and its extreme intraspecific variability. 

This problem is exemplified by Melo- 
cactus macranthus (Salm-Dyck) Link & 
Otto, originally described by Salm-Dyck 
in 1820, which has no less than 109 syno- 
nyms (Britton & Rose 1937). After this 
example it is little wonder that there is 
much argument as to the number of bona- 
fide species within the genus. 

It is also interesting to note that the 
genus is confusing — in the totality of its 


Melocactus Delessertianus 

range — the West Indies (source of M. 
Macracanthus) , Mexico, Central America 
and South America. 

In Mexico there are presently three 
very similar species recognized, M. oaxa- 
censis Britt & Rose, M. delessertianus Le- 
maire and M. dawsonii Bravo. 

The above species are primarily known 
from three widely separated localities, M. 
oaxacensis being the Southern-most. It is 
probable that continued work in the field 
will yield additional localities supporting 

my hypothesis that the three Mexican 
species are really one variable species or 
perhaps subspecies, together with the al- 
ready questioned Central American spe- 
cies, M. ruestin and M. maxonii (Kim- 
nach 1962). If this is true, M. delesser- 
tianus would be the name of this variable 
species owing to the laws of priority, it 
being the earlier described species (1839). 

The genus Melocactus is one of the 
most difficult of the cactus family to cul- 
tivate. In the wild the plants are found 
growing in areas with an indefinite 
amount of rainfall and in a soil of very 
loose nature. They are sometimes found 
in rock with a light covering of duff and 
litter over the roots. Plants are subject 
to fungal invasions, making it necessary 
to watch them closely. 

Seedling plants of several species are 
sometimes found in cactus nurseries, but 
they are very slow growing unless grafted. 
Occasionally one will come upon mature 
imported specimens for sale, but these 
are usually difficult to root and only live 
a year or two. It is a pity that the plants 
are ever removed from the wild. Often 
small plants are tremendously old and 
they live only a short time when dis- 
turbed. ■ 




Fuchsia Nursery 

770 Ocean View Ave. 
Leucadia, Calif. 







Rose Specialists 

Bushes - Climbers - and Tree Roses 

in cans, available all year 

Spray Materials and Fertilizers 

8606 Graves Ave., Santee 
corner Graves & Prospect 

Open 8 A.M. to 5:30 P.M. 

Off Highway 67 
Phone: 448-6972 

Closed Wednesdays 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 


Calendar of Care 



... an experienced horticulturist 
and teacher, Mr. George James 


of a nurseryman and has lived in 
the San Diego area since 1913. He 
came to National City with his par- 
ents and a brother and a sister from 
London, England. His father bought 
the Bower's Nursery on Third Street 
in National City soon after his ar- 
rival and moved it to the corner of 
Fifth Street and National Avenue 
a year later. Mr. fames Sr. continued 
the operation of the nursery at this 
location until his death in 1939. 

The two sons, Edward and George 
(as Frederick George was called to 
avoid confusion with the father, who 
was also Frederick) formed a part- 
nership under the name of F. W. 
James & Son and continued the busi- 
ness at the same location. Edward 
later separated from the partnership 
and opened a nursery under his own 
name in Coronado. 

George's training started early in 
life, as he worked for his father 
from early boyhood on, and before 
graduation from High School had 
served a term of apprenticeship with 
Mr. Gustave Teufel at his nursery 
in National City where Kentia palms 
and Bird-of -Paradise were the plants 

After graduation from High 
School Mr. fames attended U.C. at 
Davis, then known as the College of 
Agriculture, where he majored in 

Ornamental Horticulture. Following 
this he worked for a large florist 
shop in San Francisco as a designer. 

He then returned to National City 
and was associated with his father 
in the operation of the business 
which had grown to consist of a re- 
tail florist shop, the retail nursery, 
and a landscape contracting depart- 
ment. Following Pearl Harbor in 
1941, Mr. James assumed the man- 
agement of over 100 acres of vege- 
table crops which had been left un- 
attended by the internment of the 
Japanese owners, and continued to 
grow vegetables as well as operate 
the retail nursery and landscape 
business until the end of World War 

When the war ended the vege- 
table growing was discontinued and 
the nursery business enlarged by the 
addition of a wholesale growing 
grounds and the planting of over 
two acres of bird- of -paradise for the 
production of cut flowers. Starting 
in 1963 and ending in 1964, the nur- 
sery and flower production were 
phased out and the business closed. 
Since that time Mr. James has con- 
ducted Gardening Classes under the 
sponsorship of the Adult Schools of 
the area. He now has classes in 
Chula Vista, National City, and La 
Jolla, and expects to start classes 
soon in Coronado and El Cajon. 

— Editor 

by George James 
Garden Care Feature Writer 



California Garden it is my intention 
to discuss the environment of plants and 
its various effects on them. 

Gardeners usually consider some of the 
phases of the environment when selecting 
plants. They realize that certain plants 
require shade, or that some plants which 
grow well in other parts of the country 
are not satisfactory here because we lack 
the deep winter cold. 

They may overlook other environmen- 
tal factors, or fail to realize how en- 
vironmental factors may affect each other. 

As a result of this one has but to look 
around to find plants struggling against 
conditions they are not able to cope with. 
This situation can be avoided. If a plant 
is chosen with some consideration given 
to the plant's ability to grow well under 
the environment existing in the place it 
is to be used, one can reasonably expect 
good results. 

Before one can select the proper 
plants, it is necessary to evaluate the sit- 
uation as it exists, know what improve- 
ments are possible, then go on to find 
the plant or plants that will be happy 
with this situation. 

To help you accomplish this is what 
this series of articles will attempt to do. 

The environmental needs of the plants 
usually used in the basic landscape plant- 
ing will be considered, primarily, as I 
feel that the needs of special garden 
plants, such as roses, iris, camellias, and 
other favorites have in the past, and 
will in the future, receive adequate treat- 
ment in these pages from writers who are 
experts in their particular area of garden- 



The soil is one of the most impor- 
tant environmental factors in the 
growth of plants. 

There is a great difference in the way 
plants will grow in different soils, and 
this should be taken into consideration 
in selecting plants, for the ultimate size 
and the rate of growth will be influenced 
by the soil in which they are planted. 

Gardeners often evaluate soil by its 
fertility, but soil has other characteristics, 
as it relates to plants, that are more im- 



portant than fertility. Fertility is not 
difficult nor expensive to improve, so 
should not be too important in our think- 
ing of garden soils. 

Why is our soil poor? 

Southern California soils are generally 
of a poor quality, both in their physical 
structure and their fertility. Gardeners 
from other parts of the country often 
have difficulty in adjusting their garden- 
ing habits to this soil. 

The difference in the soils here and 
elsewhere may be explained in part by 
the climate. Areas where the rainfall is 
more generous and extends over a larger 
part of the year are likely to have a more 
suitable soil for gardening. There are 
problem soils and soil problems in all 
areas, but it seems as if Southern Cali- 
fornia has more than its share. 

There are favored spots in Southern 
California where the native soil is of 
good quality, and gardeners who are 
fortunate enough to garden on such soils, 
have many less problems than do gar- 
deners who must grow their plants on 
a marginal soil, and it is to gardeners 
with the marginal soil that these remarks 
are addressed. 

Areas which have historically enjoyed 
liberal and frequent rainfall have had 
their soil improved by the crops of native 
vegetation which have grown over the 
ages and decayed back into the ground. 
In our area the rainfall has always been 
scant and as a result far less native veg- 
etation has grown and decayed back into 
it. Many of the soils in our area form 
crusts easily, do not drain well, retain 
harmful salts from our irrigation water, 
and are difficult to work with. 

Problems of Clay Soils 

Clay soils, or soils with a great deal of 
clay in them have these unpleasant char- 
acteristics. Clay is defined as a plastic 
soil, one that can be molded when moist, 
and will retain the shape it is molded 

The soil in the garden may be a mix- 
ture of two or more soil types, such as 
a clay-loam, which will mold and retain 
its shape after molding in the same man- 
ner as pure clay, and can be improved 
by the same means as will be described 
later on for the improvement of pure 
clay. (From this point on all soils, 
from pure clay to those which con- 
tain clay plus another soil type, will be 
referred to as "clay soils.") 

Clay soils may be known to some as 

adobe soils, and by either name they 
are sticky when wet, hard when dry, and 
difficult to work at nearly any time. 

Clays may occur as surface soils, or 
as sub-stratas, with a thin layer of better 
soil over their surface. In both cases, 
the clay may extend downward for many 
feet. Deep layers of clay defy improve- 
ment of the entire mass, and hamper the 
growth of many plants by retaining water 
for too long a period of time. This is 
damaging to the plant's roots. Severe 
conditions of this nature can kill plants, 
while less severe cases will slow the 
growth and may result in dead terminal 
growth. Where the clay soil is of a great 
depth, the selection of shrubs and trees 
with the best ability to withstand the sit- 
uation is the best approach to the prob- 

If the clay is in a strata not over four 
feet in depth, and the gardener suspects 
there is a layer below that will drain the 
water faster, adequate drainage could be 
provided by digging a small hole through 
the clay, backfilling it with a material 
that will not compact, and in this way 
assure the plant good drainage. 
• More Next Issue. If you have ques- 
tions for Mr. James, please send them 
to him c/o Editor, California Garden, 
9173 Overton Avenue, San Diego, 
California 92123. 



by Larry Sisk, 

San Diego County Dahlia Society 


ROM now until the latter part of 
June dahlias may be planted with good 
results in the Costal areas of California. 
In the inland areas, and north of Los 
Angeles and Santa Barbara, the best 
planting time is the latter part of April 
until the latter part of May. 

As has been said in this space several 
times, dahlias are easy to grow if the 
gardener has reasonable success with other 
flowers and vegetation. As with the 
others, dahlias require some help to pro- 
duce the best, but average care will pro- 
duce better results than the same kind of 
care for almost any other annual. 

Basic requirements are: 
1 — Loose soil tilled to a depth of 
12-18 inches at planting time. 

2 — Planting of healthy roots (or 

3 — Proper planting near a stake, with 
the dahlia root on the side and eye or 
sprout pointing up and about 2 inches 
from the stake. 

4 — Watering in at time of planting, 
and thereafter only when the top of the 
soil is dry. 

5 — Pinching out the plants (only the 
growing tips) when they have developed 
three or four sets of leaves. 

6 — Using systemic insecticides or spray- 
ing regularly to prevent bug and worm 

7 — Pruning back or disbranching the 
plants if large flowers are desired. 

8 — Disbudding canes to permit only 
one flower for each. 

9 — Cutting wilted or faded blossoms 
when they have passed their prime so the 
plants will continue to bloom. 

As is the case for other gardening or 
other hobbies, the harder a person works, 
the more satisfaction. Some of the harder 
and extra work with dahlias include: 

1 — Cultivating around each plant until 
the first buds are fully developed. Scratch- 
ing the top of the soil with a 3-prong tool 
will keep it loose so the roots will breathe. 
This should be done when the soil dries 
after each watering, or when the soil 
crusts over. After the buds form, the 
cultivating should cease so that roots of 
the plants near the surface will not be 

2 — Fertilizing the plants regularly: a 
handful of bonemeal stirred into the soil 
at the time of planting, and feeding the 
growing plants about every two to four 
weeks. Fertilize with fish emulsion or 
prepared fertilizer, either liquid or granu- 
lated, using a low-nitrogen content such 
as 4-10-10, 5-10-10 or (best) 5-12-12. 
This should be applied before watering, 
and if liquids are used, dampen the soil, 
feed, then water in. 

3 — Mulching around the plants if con- 
venient when cultivating stops. The mulch 
may be peatmoss, vermiculite, shavings, 
sawdust, bark, steer, compost, or, for ex- 
pediency, garden soil raked from nearby 
areas and mounded over the plants' root 
areas. Mulching conserves moisture, dis- 
courages weeds, and protects the roots 
from late-summer heat. 

4 — Setting out plants instead of roots, 
and growing one's own plants by taking 
cuttings from the sprouts that develop 
on the roots before they are planted. This 
phase of hobby gardening should have 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 


been pursued six weeks or so prior to 
planting time; now, taking of cuttings 
and getting them to strike require almost 
a professional touch, due to the heat, dry 
air, and other factors that often prove 
difficult hurdles for the amateur. 

5 — Overhead-spray watering or fogging 
of dahlia plants occasionally on extremely 
hot days improves growth by refreshing 
the plants and providing desirable humid- 
ity. Deep watering, instead of sprinkling, 
is essential; a regular schedule of water- 
ing every seven days, or more frequently 
for real sandy soil, is recommended. 

6 — Pruning, disbranching and disbud- 
ding with intensive care are better than 
average tending. To get the utmost from 
the large varieties, plants should be dis- 
branched to three or four canes with no 
more than four blooms per plant at one 
time. A staggered sequence of blooms 
may be obtained by pinching lateral canes 
at intervals, and then reducing the new 
canes that will develop to the desired 

Medium-sized varieties with blooms 6 
to 8 inches across should be limited to 
six or seven canes. For best exhibition 
blooms of some varieties, plants with five 
canes are best. 

Florist varieties, 4 to 6 inches, may 
be permited to attain 6 to 10 canes, with 
one flower on each. 

Conversely, miniatures, 4 inches and 
under, and pompons, 2 inches and under, 
should be pinched back two or three 
times to encourage more canes and more 
flowers; the smallest blooms possible of 
these, with many blooms to each plant, 
should be sought. Disbudding, with only 
one bloom on each cane, is necessary for 
perfection of blossom, but the disbudding 
might be delayed until a few days before 
cutting the flowers of these smaller va- 

Timing of dahlia plants to encourage 
blooming at a specific time — say, for the 
shows — is an art developed by the ad- 
vanced hobbyist. To obtain fairly accurate 
results one needs to know his varieties 
and the approximate growth habits. An 
average, however, is that the large and 
medium varieties will bloom 90 to 100 
or 110 days after planting, or for most, 
60 days after topping or pinching, de- 
pending on normal warm growing con- 
ditions. The small varieties will bloom 
25 to 45 days after topping. 

7 — Fighting the insects is essential to 
all growing things in Southern California, 
and is especially essential in the produc- 

tion of exhibition or good-quality dahlias. 
That extra care starts at the time the little 
dahlia sprout pushes its way to the 
surface. If systemic granules were not 
planted with the root, spraying of the 
small plants immediately will protect 
them from thrips and aphids. If systemics 
are not used, this first spraying should 
be DDT or a standard insecticide con- 
taining DDT or a chemical that will dis- 
courage thrips. 

Thereafter, regular spraying is neces- 
sary. Applying insecticides immediately 
after watering, while the ground and 
plants are wet, is best. Use an all-purpose 
combination or malathion. If an infestation 
of worms develops in the face of use of 
standard insecticides, mixing arsenate of 
lead in the spray solution will clean up 
the dahlias. Later, if the malathion does 
not prevent red spider attacks, spray with 
kelthane or solutions containing a high 
percentage of kelthane. Use karathane 
to combat mildew, and in desperation, 
resort to sulphur dust. 

But, if all this extra care seems too 
formidable, go back to the nine basic 
points mentioned at the beginning, and 
you'll be delighted with the fine dahlias 
you produce. 



by Morrison W. Doty 

San Diego Fuchsia Society 


ith the advent of April there 
are some very important chores for the 
fuchsia grower or new gardener from the 
East to remember. First reminder should 
be for more frequent and regular water- 
ing, especially of all container plants. 
These hot days often come between chilly 
or foggy nights that fool you into think- 
ing there is moisture when there is none. 
Warm windy weather, or a real Santa 
Ana heat wave between cool foggy nights 
may easily kill beautiful basket plants 
before a new gardener realizes they could 
be too dry. Unless watered regularly 
every two or three days on warm days, 
or finger-tested for moisture oftener, con- 
tainer plants may be quickly lost in hot 
weather. Strange sometimes experimental 
soil mixtures that don't hold moisture at 
the root center of plants may cause sud- 

den heart failure losses also, hence simple 
soil mixes are safest for the amateur. 

Special Container Care Tips 

With so much container gardening 
now, all such plants should be checked 
for container repair, plenty of new soil 
replacement, and repotting if necessary. 
There are some good soil replacement 
mixtures at fuchsia nurseries that are 
fairly complete alone. They may include 
fir bark, peat, redwood products, and 
sponge rock. But fortunately fuchsias are 
naturally hearty feeders, and adaptable. 
Simple mixtures such as equal parts rich 
sandy loam, good leaf mold and rotted 
cow manure, with perhaps a little blood 
and bone meal added, will produce re- 
sults about equal to most complex and 
expensive commercial mixes. 

The main thing our Southern Cali- 
fornia soil lacks is humus, such as is 
found in areas of heavier rainfall and 
vegetation or like the silt in some of our 
ravines. Good weed-free manure, or a 
little Milorganite may be worked in 
around the larger plants, taking care not 
to injure near surface roots. 

You can depend on the regular feeding 
of liquid fish concentrate, weekly (if for 
show plants); hi-nitrogen, like 10-5-5 at 
first for sturdy growth; then hi-phosphor- 
ous such as 4-10-8 (or similar formulae) 
a while before show for big rich blooms ! 
After blooming heavily fuchsias like to 
rest from feeding too frequently and 
bloom repeatedly all season. 

Force feeding very long, or too much 
stimulation, as with sulphate of ammonia 
is not good. There is a new commercial 
fertilizer of granulated magnesium am- 
monium nitrate, ammonium phosphate, 
and magnesium potassium phosphate, 
with a ratio of 6 or 7% nitrogen and 
potassium to about 40% magnesium am- 
monium phosphate. It is claimed to re- 


. . . with complete, personalized at- 
tention to your every garden need. 

and fytaitit 

PHONE 297-4216 



place frequent other fertilizer feeding, 
by releasing the right amount of nitrogen 
only as it can be accepted by plants. 
Some types of it even include a systemic 
pesticide, all to be fed into the plant's 
circulation as the granules are slowly 
dissolved in watering and cultivation. 
Some growers claim it fine for them, with 
different kinds of plants. However, most 
fuchsia folks we know still prefer the 
inexpensive proven liquid fish concen- 
trates, and the simple mild preventive 
pest sprays. 

Don't forget to keep pinching out the 
tips of new growth to shape the plants 
to their proper type. The pinched tips 
will divide again and again to make 
more abundant bloom. The resultant de- 
lay in blooming allows the plants time 
for more sturdy growth to resist pests and 
repeat blooming. After having pinched 
into the proper shape, stop (to allow the 
new blossoms to set on) perhaps two 
or three weeks before your planned 
peak bloom. 

Baskets and container plants will hold 
moisture much longer if they are lined 
with metal, plastic, roofing, or some im- 
pervious material, rather than clay pots 
or slates with moss etc. Mobility of bas- 
kets and containers allows you to use 
more or less shade, sun, warmth, light 
and air without too much wind, and a 
choice of plants of bright colors for dull 
nooks in the garden. Plants that cannot 
be moved should be chosen with your 
fuchsia nursery's advice. Check for heat 
and cold resistance tendencies, as well as 
for hi-growing, low or trailing type, ac- 
cording to the place set aside in your 
garden plan. 

Don't be afraid to cut branches that 
have grown far out of shape for its type, 
any time during the year. Make cuttings 
from them in tiny plastic cups — for ex- 
change with garden friends. 

You should surely join your fuchsia 
society for the mutual advantage and en- 
joyment offered. 

Browse the nurseries for more infor- 
mation, and seek some that specialize in 
new varieties if you wish, although many 
of the old stand-bys among the over 
3000 name varieties will never be sur- 
passed, we feel sure. ■ 

by Frank Hutchinson 

Secretary, San Diego-Imperial 
Counties Iris Society 


n our warm climate there has been 
some iris bloom all winter. By late April 
plantings of spurias and tall bearded irises 
should be at their best. Plan to visit 
local gardens and the display beds at the 
commercial growers. One of the best 
places to see and compare varieties is at 
the Spring Iris Show, Convention Hall, 
Balboa Park, April 26-27. 

Selecting Iris Varieties 

Some of our readers have been looking 
over their gardens and making plans to 
discontinue some plants in order to make 
room for summer planting of irises. It 
has been fun dreaming over catalogs. The 
problem is now a matter of limited plant- 
ing space and limited funds. A large 
order the first year may easily use up both 
space and money with little chance for 
adding new varieties in later years. Also, 
irises multiply and require more space 
upon replanting. Some of our members 
dig and replant every year. Get a few 
of a few dozen varieties and plan to add 
new ones each year. Be very selective. 
There are hundreds of very desirable va- 
rieties. If possible, see the varieties be- 
fore mailing your order. For your first 
attempt, buy from local growers. Sub- 
stance and form are as important as color. 
If an iris bloom has poor substance it will 
not stand up under garden conditions and 
you soon will want to dump the variety. 
Growers often mention heavy substance 
when it is a significant characteristic. 
Since the shorter irises bloom earlier, you 
may wish to add some of these. For a 
long-blooming winter iris, consider iris 
unguicularis (Stylosa). Unless you very 
much admire one of the older tall bearded 
varieties, avoid starting your planting 
with old varieties. Many of them do 
well in colder climates but are reluctant 
bloomers here. They cannot compete 



with those bred more recently. Irises in- 
troduced during the last ten years should 
dominate your planting. 

Reblooming Irises 

In our favored climate certain tall 
bearded irises bloom in spring at the time 
of the local iris show and again some- 
time in the second half of the year, many 
of them at the time of the iris show in 
the fall. These reblooming irises are 
called remontants and are listed either 
separately in catalogs or in the regular 
list, identified as rebloomers. We asked 
our local members to name the best re- 
bloomers in their gardens. Of the one 
hundred fifty varieties submitted by mem- 
bers, fifty were successful and popular in 
several gardens. The best of these are 
listed for those who would like to order 
a few remontants for their own plantings. 
If planted, remontants should be in sep- 
arate beds where it is easy to water and 
fertilize them, keeping them growing and 
blooming during the many months when 
other irises are dormant. Some iris en- 
thusiasts have no interest in growing these 
because they consider most of them in- 

■ nir All Colors 
ill 9 Shapes & Sizes 








re-bloomVng Vms 

Yiftj'f'ti *Jvf± i i i t 1 
JL<yuisUtit*i iyris 







309 Best Road So, Stockton, Calif. 95206 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 


ferior to the spring-blooming tall bearded 
irises. On the other hand, some gardens 
in Southern California have irises bloom- 
ing every week of the year. See these be- 
fore you buy them. The more recent in- 
troductions listed have remontant tenden- 
cies but one should realize that it takes 
several years to determine dependability. 
Some of these may have failed to reach 
the top of the list because of their new- 
ness and high price. (Year of intro- 
duction in parentheses.) 

The five most popular rebloomers: 

Cayenne Capers ('61), Steeplechase 
('57), Joseph's Mantle ('49), Beaucat- 
cher ('55), and Rodeo ('47). 

The next twelve favorites: Bang ('55), 
Chant ('60), Chinquapin ('60), Fluted 
Haven ('58), Happy Birthday ('52), 
Henna Stitches ('61), Maricopa ('64), 
Patricia Craig ('62), Ruth's Love ('62), 
Valhalla ('62), Western Hills (old), and 
the intermediate Moonchild ('56). 

The next ten favorites: Adam ('62), 
County Fair ('66), Cream Crest ('59), 
Grand Teton ('56), Lady Mohr (old), 
Pacific Panorama ('60), Snow Goddess 
(old), Visiting Nurse ('65), Winter 
Rose ('60), and the standard dwarf 


• Spuria 

• Tall Bearded 

• Median 

• Dwarf 

• Louisiana 

• Siberian 



at special discount 


P. 0. Box 7 
Valley Center, CA 92082 


Brassie ('58). 

Fourteen recent introductions from the 

next twenty-three favorites: Briney ('64), 
Candle Magic ('61), Commentary ('63), 
Crinoline ('65), Golden Sensation ('67), 
Grand Spectator ('65), Latest Love ('63), 
Lorna Lynn ('61), Milestone ('65), 
Nineveh ('66), Piety ('60), Rum Jungle 
('63), Sudden Spring ('65), and Tyro- 
lean Blue ('63). 


April and May are months to enjoy 
the results of your previous work! Don't 
allow aphis and thrips to spoil your 
planting. Use Cygon 2-E. Give plenty 
of water until bloom is finished. Over- 
head watering may spoil show stalks. Do 
not fertilize. Cut bloom stalks clear to 
the ground. New growth comes from 
the buried rhizome. 

Planning for Summer 

Make plans for any necessary replant- 
ing. Instead of replanting before sum- 
mer vacation you can wait until as late as 
September without affecting spring bloom, 
particularly at the lower elevations. Ob- 
tain a balanced fertilizer, such as 10-10- 
10, to apply in June about a month after 
bloom. Tall bearded irises may be set 
any month of the year. If a rhizome is 
old and dry after weeks or months out 
of the ground, plant it ! It will probably 
grow well. More specific directions for 
replanting will be covered in the next 
issue. ■ 



What To Do For 
Cymbidiums In April 

by Frank Fordyce, Oceanside 


T IS QUITE EVIDENT that in looking 
about us and observing the tremendous 
volume of top quality flowers borne on 
such robust plants, that Cymbidium grow- 
ers and hobbyists alike are finding that the 
hardy Cymbidium Orchid is just another 
plant that thrives on good basic common 
sense growing. Until recently the Cymbi- 
dium, as in other Orchid genera, was set 
upon a pedestal and regarded as some 
mysterious "difficult to grow" rare and 
unusual plant. But now, after much the- 
orizing and hushed talk, it is found that 

they respond much like any other plant, 
given the care typical of its native sur- 

As the Spring Orchid Shows progress, 
we can truthfully say that this has been 
the best season for new and finer Cym- 
bidiums as new hybrids arrived on the 
scene in quantity. 


During this month many of your fine 
varieties will be at their blooming peak, 
and careful thought should be given to 
the matter of shading. Have you noticed 
that greens, in particular, need heavy 
shading when in bud if they have any 
tendency at all toward a bronze suffusion ? 
Additional shade allows you to enjoy a 
clearer shade of green. One of the hand- 
iest and easiest to use shade materials 
is the Saran shade cloth that may be pur- 
chased in many densities of light. This 
may be used in the garden over your 
plants for additional shade (and protec- 
tion from hail damage) or over the green- 
house for shade during the bud to flower 

Bud Drop 

Bud drop occasionally plagues every 
grower, and it is a wise grower who 
carefully watches for unusually bright 
shafts of light on the buds, excessive dry- 
ness at the roots, or stagnant air condi- 
tions in the greenhouse. Avoid spraying 
buds with insecticide spray containing a 
solvent carrier. Use instead, either wet- 
table powder spray dusts, or the newer 
systemic insecticides that are applied 
through the root system. 

Feeding Program 

This is a good month to start that 
feeding program you have been neglect- 
ing and follow a regular feeding program 
on all your plants. Remembering that 
the months of March through August 
are the main growing and rooting months, 


"Everything for the Garden" 

Dramatize the garden. 

Nightscape with 12 volt garden lighting. 

Bankamericard Delivery 

Master Charge 

8480 La Mesa Blvd. — 466-5703 



you should provide the plants with a 
well-balanced high nitrogen food in order 
to start a good root and growth action. 
For the very busy gardener, new slow-re- 
lease fertilizers are available that need 
be applied only 3 - 4 times per year. The 
more active the human body is, the more 
nourishment it demands and this is also 
true of the Cymbidiums. 

April is the month during which most 
plant life seems to awaken and it is very 
important that your plants be properly 
prepared for the growing season just be- 
ginning. Your early bloomers, non- 
bloomers, and back-bulb propagations 
should have been attended to by now and 
only your flowering plants should require 
looking after. As soon as the spikes are 
cut these too must receive attention. Get 
them into fresh compost if they have not 
been disturbed for two years or more. 
Don't be afraid to disturb the roots of a 
plant after it flowers. I know a few com- 
mercial growers cut all the roots back to 
only four inches as they repot. However 
most of us cut only the dead or excess- 
ively long roots back. Just before repot- 
ting, allow each plant to dry at the roots 
thereby reducing the brittleness of the 
roots so they will not break so easily. 
Keep your plants in good-size divisions 
of at least 3 - 4 bulbs per plant for best 
results. If your plant has several leafless 
dormant back-bulbs, it is wise to remove 
them when repotting and start them 
again. Do not "overpot" unless the plant 
is an exceptional grower, as too large a 
pot often keeps the soil excessively wet 
resulting in loss of roots. After repot- 
ting, place plant temporarily in a well 
shaded, humid condition and supply 
moisture by frequent spraying of foliage 
and outside of pot. This will prevent 
bulb shrivelage. When active root action 
shows, normal light and food may be re- 
sumed. Please remember — resolve this 
Spring and Summer to give your plants 
much more light and thorough drenching 
of water at each application. If you do 
this you can feed more heavily too, and 
this balance of light water, and food will 
pay dividends in the Fall when spikes 
begin to show. ■ 

Calendar of Care 

In Poorest Soil — Even in Sand or Water 

Preferred by millions (or 30 years. Simply dissolve 
in water and feed all plants through roots or foliage. 
Clean, odorless. If dealer can't supply, send $1 for 
10 ozs. • makes 60 gals. 75-Product Catalog free. 

HYDROPONIC CHEM. CO., Copley, Ohio 44321, U.S.A. 



by J. Wells Hershey and Mary Jane Hershey 
San Diego Rose Society 


ccording TO Dr. Robert E. Atkin- 
son, in the Home magazine section of the 
Los Angeles Times' Sunday edition of 
January 12, 1969, "You could create a 
whole rose garden out of the All-America 
selections for 1969." 

ANGEL FACE — lavender floribunda, 
a Herb Swim development is the first 
lavender rose to receive the All-America 
honors. Considered a once-in-a-lifetime 
kind of rose it is a fantasy-like blend of 
a rich deep lavender color, the bud of 
Grecian Urn shape and has a spicy, old 
fragrance. Blossoms up to four-inches 
across are born in clusters and they last 
well when cut (note this all flower ar- 
rangers). Its plants are low, broad, even- 
ly growing and well-shaped — perfect for 
locating in the foreground of the rose 
garden. "Angel Face" is the result of a 
cross (Circus X Lavender Pinocchio) X 
Sterling Silver. 

PASCALI — white hybrid tea, a Louis 
Lens of Belgium creation is probably the 
whitest white to be found among today's 
popular hybrid tea cultivars. Its blooms 
are remarkably beautiful in form regard- 
less of weather or season, has a graceful 
urn-shaped bud which opens to a medium- 
sized bloom with 35 to 40 petals, holding 
its bud-like center even until the outer 
petals drop. As to the plant, it grows 
erect, is vigorous and has handsome, dis- 

Walter Andersen 


Nursery Stock and Garden Supplies 
for Beautiful Gardens 

We Specialize in Indoor Plants 

3860 Rosecrans San Diego 92 I 1 
Phone 296-6251 


Angel Face 

ease-resistant foliage. It is resistant to 
mildew, it breaks readily and produces 
its blooms in a steady succession. "Pas- 
cali" is internationally known, having 
won a gold medal at the Hague, a silver 
medal at Baden-Baden, first certificates 
at Rome and Paris, and certificates of 
merit at Geneva, Madrid, London and 
Vienna. Its parentage is "Queen Eliza- 
beth" X "White Butterfly." 

COMANCHE — an orange-red grandi- 
flora is tall enough to serve as a back- 
ground plant, and will add sparkle to any 
garden with its bold, high-centered 
blooms produced in candelabra clusters 
throughout the year. The fiery scarlet- 
red buds unfold to fully double four-inch 
and larger blooms of more than 50 petals. 
The plant stands a tall vigorous five feet, 
yet it is bushy and produces a steady suc- 
cession of beautiful blooms, has bright 
leathery green foliage, and had good re- 
sistance to disease. Exhibitors and ar- 
rangers will delight in its perfect buds 
and the excellent substance and form of 
the fully opened flowers. "Comanche" 
parentage is "Spartan" X ("Carrousel" X 
"Happiness") and is another Swim & 
Weeks development. 

GENE BOERNER— Pink floribunda, 
the only pink rose to receive an All- 
America award for 1969, was developed 
by Eugene S. Boerner and has been 

APRIL -MAY, 1969 


named to commemorate the late Eugene 
S. Boerner, long-time plant research di- 
rector and developer of more than 160 
patented rose cultivars for the Jackson & 
Perkins Co. He created 180 patented va- 
rieties in his lifetime, including 11 All- 
Americas. This winner is an exception- 
ally free blooming deep, clear pink. In 
constant bloom, its bud and flower form 
are uniformly superior. Buds open slowly 
with an interesting spiral effect, unfurling 
into clean full flowers are borne in clus- 
ters and frequently on long cutting stems 
of 10 or 12 inches. The plant is upright 
and very symmetrical because of its free 
branching habit, is constantly well filled 
with foliage and remains clean and green 
throughout the entire growing season. 

A rose can attain no higher honor than 
that of receiving the Award of the All- 
America Rose Selections (AARS), and 
to receive it indicates that the rose has 
been observed for two seasons and found 
to be a superior variety in the 22 official 
trial gardens authorized by All-America 
Rose Selections (an organization of intro- 
ducers and commercial growers). Roses 
entered in the AARS competitions are 
planted in the 22 official test gardens 
under conditions similar to those of the 
average well-cared-for garden. Each such 
rose is rated in successive stages of growth, 
bloom and dormancy, and the one or two 
or more that pass the extremely strict test 
are announced early in the following year. 
So high are the standards of the All- 
America selectors that no roses were ac- 
cepted as worthy of the AARS symbol in 
1951 and no hybrid tea roses in 1954. 
The American Rose Society has no con- 
nection with the All-America Rose Selec- 
tions, other than announcing the selec- 
tions each year. 



ood grief! Here it is "Analysis" 
time again in the good ole rose garden. 
That's right. "And now let's see" what 
we should be doing in our rose garden. 

One thing for certain — the rose bush 
responds to the type of care it is given, 
and as this is really the beginning of the 
new year for the rose bloom, a few New 
Year's resolutions might be in order. 

To grow roses successfully, states the 
new edition of the Sunset Western Gar- 
den Book, you must: (1) Buy healthy, 
No. 1 plants in varieties suited to your 
climate; (2) Locate and plant them prop- 
erly; and (3) Supply their four basic 
needs: water, nutrients, pruning and pest 

and disease control. Well, resolve to buy 
at least one of the newer roses for your 
garden this year. If you buy bushes grow- 
ing in five -gallon cans, transplanting 
should be fairly easy, and if you place 
any value on your own time, you will 
always buy NUMBER ONE plants. 

Watering: The second resolution might 
be about water. In our area of the State 
of California, water is too expensive to 
waste. The rose is a thirsty plant and 
must be watered during the growing sea- 
son. The exact amount that any one rose 
bush may require cannot be given due to 
the variations in climate and soil condi- 
tions in this area, but the bushes should 
get enough water for vigorous growth at 
all times of the blooming, growing year. 

Watering to full root depth produces 
the best results, which means penetration 
of at least 16 to 18 inches. One way to 
know if your bushes are receiving enough 
water is to dig down and find out for 
yourself. The other is to time the appli- 
cation of water to match the ability of 
your soil to absorb it. This is done by 
timing the irrigation of the rose bed, and 
the next day digging down to see how 
far the water penetrated. If it only pene- 
trated 10 inches in an hour, you know 
that you will have to double the time at 
the next watering if you want to penetrate 
to 20 inches. 

How often you water is another prob- 
lem. If you have sandy soil, water is 
quickly absorbed and quickly exhausted, 
so watering intervals should be from four 
to ten days. If you have loam soil, water- 
ing intervals should be from eight to fif- 
teen days. And if you have clay soil, 
watering intervals should be from fifteen 
to thirty days. During those hot, dry 
spells it will be necessary to water more 
frequently. A day of hot, dry wind will 
draw out of leaves a great deal of mois- 
ture which will have to be replaced 

Nutrients: The third resolution should 
be about fertilizing. After all that won- 
derful rain we had this past winter (and 
didn't it seem like it would never stop), 
followed by the first feeding after the 
showing of new growth on the bushes, 
your roses should be ready for the gather- 
ing of the first crop of blooms. 

When to feed 

According to authorities, it usually 
takes about five or six weeks from the 
start of the flowering shoot to the open- 
ing of the bud. For example: If you 
had planned to enter blooms in the San 

Diego Rose Show on April 12-13, your 
first feeding would have been approxi- 
mately March 1. If you are planning to 
exhibit in the Mother's Day Rose Show 
held annually at Rose Hills Memorial 
Park, Whittier, California, you would 
start the fertilizing about 30 March, and 
if you are planning to exhibit rose blooms 
in our San Diego County Fair at Del Mar 
next June -July, your next scheduled feed- 
ing would be about May 10. 

All gardeners have their own indi- 
vidual methods of feeding their rose 
plants. You can apply fertilizing mate- 
rials to the soil surface above the roots; 
or apply the nutrient materials through 
the leaves; or by the mulch of manure, 
leaf mold, enriched peat moss, or other 
organic materials. The three basic ele- 
ments needed for healthy growth of roses 
are nitrogen, phosphorus (phosphoric 
acid), and potassium. These elements are 
present in all garden soils, but the rose 
plants eventually use up the supply, and 
it must be replenished. Nitrogen is the 
element which produces the green growth, 
phosphorus provides the most help dur- 
ing the blooming period and potassium 
(potash) assists both nitrogen and phos- 
phorus in providing growth and bloom. 

Either organic fertilizer or inorganic 
fertilizer can be used in the rose garden, 
and a well-rounded program of rose feed- 
ing employs both. Why? Well, inor- 
ganic fertilizer is faster acting than or- 
ganic fertilizer, as it contains the basic 
elements in a more concentrated form. 
However, organic fertilizer contributes to 
maintaining the humus content of the 
soil and to the supplementing the soil 
bacteria population. 

Pest Control Program 

Pest and disease control: The fourth 
resolution should be the control of insect 
pests and diseases. If you have a nice 
healthy rose garden that has been pruned, 
fed and watered properly you will have 
very little trouble with this category. In 
our area, a sound pest control program 
begins in the winter, after pruning when 
you have removed and burned all old 
leaves, and have tidied up the rose bed, 
and sprayed with a dormant spray. The 
principal pests are aphids, spider mites 
and in some areas, thrips. To control 
aphids, spray with contact insecticides as 
soon as the aphids first appear, and re- 
peat as needed. Spider mites can be con- 
trolled by spraying with a miticide until 
infestation is wiped out, or use a systemic 
insecticide. ■ 





(Under the sponsorship of 
The Park and Recreation Dept., City of San Diego) 
Third Tuesday, Floral Building, 8 p.m. 
Pres.: Mr. Virgil H. Schade 298-1949 

1633 Pennsylvania 


f-irst Thursday, Floral Building, 7:30 p.m. 
Pres.: Mrs. R. E. Rosenberg 295-1537 

3671 Pringle St., S.D. 92110 



Second Thursday, Floral Building 

P.O Box 12162, S. D., Calif. 92112 

Pres: Howard Voss 
1290 Birmingham Dr. 


Calif. 92024 



Fourth Wednesday, Floral Bldg. 10:00 a.m. 

Pres.: Mrs. D. J. Arnold 

5377 Mt. Burnham Dr. San Diego 921 I I 278-5070 
Rep.: Mrs. J. Otto Crocker 582-5316 

4749 Redland Dr. San Diego 92115 



4189 Adams Ave. 

San Diego 92116 284-5231 

Exec. Dir. Mrs. Dorothea Edmiston 

5353 Wilshire Dr. 

San Diego 92116 284-8210 


Meets every Thursday, 12m to I p.m. 
Garden House, Grape and 101 Civic Center 

Pres.: Mr. Arnold F. Landweer 295-4704 

3554 Georgia St.. S.D. 92103 
Rep.: Mrs. A. C. Van Zeyl 463-6165 

12254 Wintergardens Dr., Lakeside 92040 


First Wednesday, Floral Building, 7:30 p.m. 
Pres.: Mr. Daniel Blum 
4730 Baylor Drive San Diego 92115 582-2983 


Third Monday, 10 a.m. Homes of members 
Pres.: Mrs. Joseph Cuddihy 
7857 La Jolla Scenic Drive 
La Jolla 92037 463-0171 

Fourth Monday, Floral Bldg., 7:30 p.m. 
Pres.: Jim D. Campbell 278-4372 

2903 Greyling Dr., S.D. 92123 
Rep.: Dr. J. W Troxell 282-9131 

4950 Canterbury Drive, S.D. 92116 


Third Friday, Floral Building, 7:30 p.m. 
Pres.: Capt. C. R. Curr 

3515 37th St. S.D. 92105 284-2042 

Rep.: Mrs. Mary Panek 222-5031 

4680 Del Monte Ave., S.D. 92107 
First Friday, Floral Bldg., 10 a.m. 
Pres.: Mrs. Harold A. Skinner 222-1211 

3530 Lowell, S.D. 92106 

Rep.: Mrs. M. M. Nohrden 222-7394 

440 San Antonio St.. S.D. 92106 


Second Sunday, Floral Bldg., 1-5 p.m. 

Pres.: Mr. James Hopper 420-8766 

731 Beech Ave. 
Chula Vista, Calif. 92010 
Rep.: Mrs. Ray Hosier 
743 Nautilus St., L.J. 92037 459-6706 


First Saturday, Floral Building, 2 p.m. 

Pres.: Walter E. Greenwood 

4085 49th Street San Diego 92105 281-6781 

Rep.: Mrs. Peter Klinefelter 276-6517 

2201 Fairfield Street 
San Diego, Calif. 92110 


Second Friday, Floral Building, 7:30 p.m. 

Pres.: Mr. Charles Persing 

9552 Larrabee, San Diego 92123 278-1589 

Rep.: Mrs. Deena Montmorency 297-2625 

4349 Florida St., S.D. 92104 
Second and Fourth Thursday, 7:30 p.m. 
Pres.: Mr. Clem Runner 
4680 Map'e Street 
La Mesa, Calif 92041 463-6957 


Fourth Tuesday, Floral Building, 7:30 p.m. 

Pres.: Victor Kerley 

3765 James Street, San Diego 92106 224-1884 

Rep.: Mrs R. M. Middleton 296-3246 

3944 Centre St S.D. 92103 


Meets 3rd Sunday, Floral Bldg., 2:30 p.m. 
Pres.: Mrs. William Van Dusen 445-3024 

Rt. I Box 9IH, Alpine, CA 92001 
Rep.: Mrs. O. M. Conoly 223-7769 

758 Cordova Ave., S.D. 92107 









Hrst Tuesday, Floral Building, 8 p.m. 
Pres.: Frank Fordyce 
2500 Fire Mountain Drive 

Oceanside, Calif 92054 
Rep.: Byron Geer 
5094 Mt. La Hatta Dr., S.D. 92117 
Second Monday, Floral Building, 8 p.m. 
Pres.: Mrs. Wm. Knotts 
1912 Dav.d Street San Diego 921 I I 
Rep.: Mrs. Mildred Murray 
467 East Fulvia St. 
Encinitas, Calif. 92024 
Third Monday, Floral Building, 8 p.m. 
Pres.: Richard D. Streeper 
1333 Wenatchee Ave. 
El Cajon, Calif 92021 
Rep.: Mrs. Felix White 
5282 Imperial Ave.. S.D. 921 14 
First Wednesday, Floral Building, 10:30 a 
Pres.: Mrs. Gerald Dennis 
8250 Poinciana Dr., El Cajon 92021 
Rep.: Mrs. Roland S. Hoyt 
2271 Ft. Stockton Dr., S.D. 92103 



Third Friday, Homes of Members, 10 a.m. 
Pres.: Miss Myrle Patterson 224-1572 

4310 Piedmont Dr., S.D. 92107 


First Wednesday, 1:00 Seven Oaks Community 
Center, Bernardo Oaks Dr., Rancho Bernardo 
Pres.: William Wheatley 
16402 Sarape Dr. San Diego 92128 
(Rancho Bernardo) 487-1150 

First Friday, VFW Hall, Carlsbad, 1:30 p.m. 
Pres.: Mrs. Robert Williamson 729-2276 

1255 Cynthia Lane, Carlsbad 92008 


Third Wednesday, Chula Vista Woman's Club, 
357 "G" St., 1:00 p.m. 

Pres.: Mrs. Benjamin Tate 420-1700 

44 Second Ave., Chula Vista 92011 

Pres.: Mrs. Raymond E. Smith 488-0830 

4995 Fanuel St., Pacific Beach 92109 


Meets 1st Tuesday, Red Cross Bldg., 1113 Adella 

Pres.: Thomas J. Gligorea 
309 1st Coronado 92118 435-1007 


Third Tuesday, Knights of Columbus Hall, 
3827 43rd St., S.D. 92105, 8 p.m. 

Pres.: Mr. Charles Williams 
3865 41st Street, San Diego 92105 284-2317 


Fourth Thursday, Red Cross Bldg, 1113 Adella 
Lane, 9:00 a.m. 

Pres.: Mrs. Benjamin H. Berry 435-4997 

471 Country Club Lane, Coronado 92118 
First Wednesday, Encinitas Union Elementary 
School, 7:30 p.m. 
Pres.: Mrs. I. F. Nichols 753-5409 

159 Diana, Leucadia 92046 


Meets 2nd Tuesday, Alt. Pauma Valley and Valley 
Center 1:30 p.m. 

Pres.: Mrs. Frances J. Lawson 
P. O. Box 288, Valley Center 92082 

EL CAJON WOMAN'S CLUB (Garden Section) 

Pres.: Mrs. John Ohlson 444-2753 

655 Bradford Rd., El Cajon 92020 


3rd Friday, Veterans Memorial Hall 1:00 p.m. 

Pres. - Mrs. Olaf Olsen 
Rt I - Box 770 6 Escondido 92025 745-4449 


Last Thursday, Fallbrook Woman's Clubhouse, 
1:30 p.m. 

V-Pres.: Mrs. Blanche Griset 
769 Knoll Park Lane Fallbrook 92028 728-2394 


Second Monday, La Mesa Chamber of Commerce 
Bldg., University Ave., La Mesa 92041 

Pres : Mrs Floyd Swingle 
4680 D omona Ave., La Mesa 92041 469-1248 


Meets at Members' Homes Quarterly. 

Pres.: Mrs. Eugene Cooper 295-7938 


3rd luesday, Imperial Beach Civic Center. 
1:30 p.m. 

Pres.. Mrs. Walter V. Roberts 
553 Spruce St., Imperial Beach 92032 
Meets: First Tuesday each month except 
July & August Mt. Soledad Presbyterian Church 
1:00 p.m. 

Pres.: Mrs. John Marx 459-6417 

1216 La Jolla Rancho Rd., La Jolla 92037 


3rd Monday, Lakeside Farm School, 7:30 p.m. 

ties.: Mrs. Loy M. Smith 443-3089 

V5II Farmington Dr., Lakeside 92040 

LA MESA WOMAN'S CLUB (Garden Section) 
ird Tnursday, La Mesa Women's Club, l:00 p.m. 
Pres.: Mrs. Allen W. Carpenter 583-7508 

5I69 Ewing, S.D. 


(Garden Section) 

First Tuesday, Lemon Grove Woman's Club 
House, I p.m. 
Pres.: Mrs. Hal Crow 466-3330 

3850 Quarry Rd., La Mesa 
Meets First Monday, 8 p.m. 
Barbour Hall, Pershing and University 
Mrs. Vera Eimar 477-5344 

II29E 1 6th St., National City 92050 
Meets First Tuesday, 7:30 p.m. at 
Palomar College 
Pres.: James A. Kirk 748-3870 

I5I3I Espola Road, Poway 


Second Sat., 1 :30 p.m. Seacoast Hall, Encinitas 

Pres.: Howard M. Voss 
I290 Birmingham Dr., Encinitas 92024 753-54I5 


Second Wednesday, S. Oceanside School 
Auditorium, 7:30 p.m. 
Pres.: Mrs. John B. Stanton 726-I466 

1 858 Avocado Dr., Vista 92083 
Meet second Monday, 7:30 p.m. Community 
Club House, Gresham and Diamond Sts., 
Pacific Beach 

Pres.: Mrs. Edward J. Reemar 488-9609 

970 Agate St., S.D. 92I09 

Pres.: Mr. James Specht 
Third Saturday, I p.m., Palomar College Foreign 
Language Building, Room F22 
Pres.: Mrs. Mildred Gregory 724-4986 

339 S. Melrose Dr., Vista 92083 
Meets Third Wednesday, 7:30 p.m., Avocado 
Inn, II4 Hillside Terrace, Vista 
Pres.: Eugene A. Casey 753-357I 

932 Crest Drive, Encinitas 
2nd Wednesday, 9:30 a.m.. Community Church 
Pres.: Mrs. Leo C. Cusick 
1 338 Frame Rd Pway 92064 748-8270 

Second Tuesday — Club House, 2:00 p.m. 
Pres.: Hubert Larson 

P.O. Box 782 Rancho Santa Fe 92067 756-I926 
Fourth Tuesday, San Carlos Club, 6955 Golfcrest 
Pres.: Mrs. Douglas Oldfield 
6372 Lake Levon San Diego 463-0692 


Fourth Monday, Barbour Hall - Univ & 
Pershing, 8 p.m. 
Pres.: Mrs. Mary Hofmann 

2327 33rd Street, San Diego 92I04 284-4449 

Second Monday, 8 p.m. at 4724 Nebo Dr. La Mesa 
Pres.: Mrs. Jackie Hardin 
2626 Coronado Ave., Space 1 16 
Imperial Beach, Calif 92132 424-3456 

Third Wednesday, Seacoast Savings Building, 
Encinitas, 10 a.m. 
Pres.: Mrs. Waido Vogt 755-4772 

773 Barbara Ave., Solana Beach 92075 


Pres.: Mr. E. C. Pferdner 
1221 San Julian Dr., San Marcos 92069 744-0226 

First Wed., Youth Center, Lemon Grove 

Pres.: Mrs. Mary Birchell 
6070 Sarita St., La Mesa 92041 466-7631 


Second Monday, Ramona Women's Club House, 
5th and Main, 9:30 a.m. 

V-Pres.: Mrs. Winifred Posik 
723 E St. Ramona 92065 789-0531 


Pres.: Mrs. Leon Roloff 448-0291 

9138 Willow Grove Ave., Santee 92071 
Meets 3rd Thursday, 10 a.m. Homes of members 
Pres.: M r s. Brown Thompson III 
16728 Espola Rd., Poway 92064 

First Friday, Vista Rec. Center 1:00 p.m. 

Pres.: Mrs. Wm L. Larsen 
300 Mar Vista Dr., Vista 92083 726-3622 


Second Tuesday, 2 p.m. Family Association 


Pres.: Mrs. Clara Haskins 465-0910 

2352 El Prado, Lemon Grove 92045 

San Diego Floral Association 
Floral Building, Balboa Park 
San Diego, Ca. 92101 






4 J 





zard Products, Inc. 

te selection of rock and masonry items to fit every gardening design.